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An Irish Seven Summits Challenge
Irish Aconcagua Expedition, Highest Mountain in South America.
6,962 meters (22,637 feet)
To see reports on the Irish Aconcagua Expedition visit
the news page.
Date 28th December 2004- 18 January 2005 - 21 Days
Climbing Leader Pat Falvey, Ireland's Leading High Altitude
mountaineer.
Aconcagua, is the highest peak on the South American Continent
and a continental high point for those endeavouring to
complete the Seven Summits Challenge. It is a trekking
peak that can be completed by most fit people that can
acclimatize to the altitude. It is also an amazing challenge
for those wishing to climb in the Himalayas and an ideal
training ground for those whoís ambitions are to
climb 7,000 and 8000 meter mountains. This expedition is
a part of the Irish Seven Summits Challenge and will be
lead by world renowned Adventurer, explorer and adventurer
Pat Falvey who has completed 38 high altitude expeditions
worldwide including summiting Mt Everest twice. His experience
and knowledge of high a
ltitude mountaineering will add
greatly to the experience.
The Giant Of South America
The 'Giant of America' Aconcagua is an aim for many mountaineers
from around the world, a challenge that's exciting
and stimulating to complete. During our adventure of ascending
this mountain weíll obtain precious, unique and
exclusive experiences offered solely by this splendid and
magnificent mountain.
The Aconcagua Mountain is the centre and principal reason
for existence of the Provincial Aconcagua Park, one of
the most spectacular protected areas of Argentina. This
park is located in the province of Mendoza. Situated a
few miles from the Chilean borderline. The region of Mendoza
is know to have some of the best wines in the world and
its lands are fed from the waters that flows from this
giant mountain through the beds of the rivers Horcones,
Vacas and Cuevas.
The city of Mendoza, with one million inhabitants is the
mandatory pass for all mountain-climbers, for it is here
that all climbers have to obtain an official authorisation
permit to climb the mountain or to do trekking on its slopes.
The city is locate d at 110 miles from the mountain; has
an international airport, numerous hotels, restaurants
and recreational opportunities.
The history of the Aconcagua Mountain is closely related
to the ancient culture of the Andes. The Inca population
considered it a Temple. Worshipping items were found including
a mummy, which confirms the importance this 'Stone Sentry',
had for the original People who inhabited this area. It
also is an ideal practice ground for those intending to
climb higher mountains in the Himalayas such as some of
the 7000 and 8000 metre peaks because of itís elevation,
geographic and climatic conditions. All of these factors
provide an ideal challenge, setting and scenery for climbers
with moderate technical abilities to gain a summit of a
high altitude mountain.
Training Sessions
Highly recommended
Throughout the year we do special training weekends here
in Ireland for people going to or intending doing trekking
and climbing expeditions in different parts of the world.
It enables a person to determine the fitness level they
need to achieve to enjoy their chosen adventure. For those
wishing to climb snow and ice peaks we also run winter
Skills Training in Scotland in February and March every
year for beginners and those wishing to brush up on their
snow and ice techniques. We also run a course on Camp Craft
for those going to mountain ranges that require skills
to survive in the great outdoors.
Day 1&2
Depart Ireland - arrive Santiago/Mendoza: Flights Dublin
Santiago / Santiago Dublin. We arrive at Mendoza and transfer
to hotel for briefing of our stay in Mendoza and also a
briefing on the climb.
Day 3 - Mendoza
We will do a full equipment final cheque to ensure we have
all the gear we need for the mountain as Mendoza is the
last place where gear can be purchased. We will then go
and relax and chill our in Mendoza get permits and go to
a typical Argentinean restaurant before the start of the
expedition really begins. In Argentina dinner starts at
9 pm approximately.
Day 4
Transportation from Mendoza to the Mountain Hotel.
We will be transported in a small van or private bus to
the mountain village of Penitentes at 8800 feet (2700 m)
height. In this town we will find the natural bridge of
Puente Del Inca across the 'Las Cuevas' river. Bridge.
The Inca population to cross that river used this natural
bridge. After arrival we will check on the loading of our
gear on the mules and than prepare to spend the night at
a Hotel.
Day 5 and 6
We start our journey towards Plaza de Mulas 13943 feet
(4250 m).
We will be taken to the 'Laguna de Horcones'
where we will have our first view of the Aconcagua. At
this spot 'The
Rock Guardian', suddenly comes into view in all its dimensions
of magnificence and splendour. We will be able to devise
the entire southern wall. This view will produce a great
impact on you, never to be forgotten. After checking our
admission permits with the park guardians we will start
our two-day trekking approximately (40 kms). Up to Plaza
de Mulas. This will be our base camp during our expedition.
The mules and muleteers will transport the entire luggage
and packages to the base camp expect for your small backpack
for the day. You will have access to your gear transported
on mule backs every night if you so desire.
This will ease and make your approximation to the daily
destination more enjoyable. After the first walk of 4 to
5 hours we will camp at Confluencia 11.000 feet (3500 m).
Here after a short rest we will have our dinner and spend
the night. In appropriate high-mountain tents.
Early the next day after breakfast we will start crossing
the (Wide Field) 'Playa Ancha' a large and wide dessert
like plain, always with heavy winds. Slowly we will ascend
as we cross the Higher Valley of the Horcones River. At
the end of the march we will climb the 'Cuesta Brava' (or
Fierce Slope) a very pronounced pendant which will take
us to our base camp at Plaza de Mulas at 13,943 feet (4,250
m). This day of 8 to 9 hours of trekking will be very important
to acclimatise and these progressive efforts will help
us minimise the effects of the altitude.
Days 7 through to 9 - Resting and acclimatisation
After reaching the "Plaza de Mulas" and setting
up our camp we will remain at least three nights at this
base. The first day is always a day to rest and a good
opportunity to shower and explore the site. We will divide
the packs that will be taken to the camps in altitude:
(i.e. general equipment, fuel and food).
We will transport these in such a way that our backpacks
will have as little weight as possible and thus slowly
adjust ourselves to the altitude. During the transportation
to the height campsites 1 and 2 we will be reaching the
level of 17.700 feet. (5400 m) It will be a hard day in
which we will climb 3280 feet (1000 m) with heavy backpacks
on easy terrain. The next day will be used to regain strength
for the next escalation in height.
Day 10
We ascend from Base camp to camp 1, the Canada Site, 16,000
feet (4,900 m).
This will depend on the physical condition of the group
and the climatic conditions on the mountain, However we
made decide to take an easy day to further acclimatise.
As weíll be operating as a team each team member
will be given the best chances to acclimatise and reach
the top. Camp 1. (Plaza Canada) 16,000 feet.
Day 11
Climb to Camp 2, (Condor's Nest) Nido de Condores 17,712
feet (5,400 m)
Camp 2 offers us a spectacular sight of the surrounding
mountains and the setting of the sun on the Pacific Ocean.
Day 12
Ascending from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (Berlin) 19,680 feet (6,000
m).
In a 4-hour march we will ascend to Camp 3, Berlin. This
site offers a spectacular platform on the Northern edge,
from which we will be able to observe the unforgettable
sight of the highest peaks of the Central Andes Mountain
range.
Day 13 - Summit Day - 22,835 feet (6,962 m)
The day starts at 5am. It is the most demanding day of
our expedition. We will climb the northern ridge to the
shelter named 'Independence' (6,500 m). Normally it will
be here that we will that day for the first time be reached
by the sunrays. We will climb to 'Portezuelo del Viento'
(Door to the Wind) where we will be confronted with heavy
winds even during relatively mild days. From here on we
will cross the high West side and climb the 'canaleta'
(gutter) a canal of approx. 980 feet (300 m) that takes
us to the top. From the 'Filo del Guanaco' (Guanaco ridge)
we will be able to observe right under our feet the imposing
9,840 feet (3,000 m) of vertical ice and rocks of the southern
wall of the Aconcagua. Considered being one of the largest
walls in the world. With great satisfaction we will arrive
at the summit 22,835 feet high (6,962 m). Here we will
receive our price. A sight of 360 degrees and the experience
of personal feelings and indescribable sensations that
we cannot describe for you.
Days 14, 15, 16
Extra reserved days in case bad climatic conditions.
Within our itinerary we calculated four possible days to
reach the summit. These days are calculated to guarantee
a higher possibility to reach the 22,835 summit. After
having enjoyed these splendid hours on the 'Roof of America'
we return to camp 3, Berlin Site, here we will take a much
deserved rest and the following day we return to Base camp
on Plaza de Mulas.
Day 17
Descend toward Base Camp to Penitentes or Puente Del Inca.
We will start our descent. This day after walking between
7 to 8 hours we will arrive at the hotel where a good dinner
and celebration is awaiting us.
Day 18
Transportation from Hotel to Santiago.
Day 19
Rest day or delay day to be used earlier on expedition.
Day 20
Transportation to the airport for return trip to Ireland.
Argentina Vaccinations
You should ensure that you are vaccinated against the following:
Polio - Typhoid - Tetanus - Hepatitis A.
Please consult your doctor at least six weeks prior to
departure to arrange a schedule of immunisation and to
ensure that there is nothing else required.
Equipment list for Aconcagua supplied on booking
Travelling Baggage
Large duffel bag with lock. 1 for transporting gear. I'm
presently getting 120 litre duffel bags made if you wish
to order one.
Smaller duffel with lock. (To store excess gear in hotel.)
Plastic bags. To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry.
Packing for mules
We cannot Pack bags heavier than 30 kilos each, as the
load should be balanced with a maximum of 30 kilos each
side of the mules we'll be hiring; making a total of 60.
Each mule can carry up to 60 kilos.
For more information please contact Pat
Falvey.
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