An Irish Seven Summits Challenge

Mt Elbrus, Highest Mountain in Europe.
5,642 meters (18,511 feet)

We run expeditions to Mt Elbrus June, July and August every year.

This is an exciting adventure into the volatile Caucasus region, which adds a sense of anticipation to the experience. Why not join an Irish expedition

to the roof of Europe and the heart of Russia.

1: Ireland-Moscow-MineralYvody-Elbrus-Return, Full Service.

2: Logistics for the Independent expedition team and support back up.

3: Letters of invitation permits and Visas for all regions of Russia.

Mt. Elbrus

 Its summit stand's at an impressive height of 5642 meters and is easy technical climb that should not be under estimated. See risk assessment below on dangers, timings, food, important heights..

Elbrus is situated in the peaceful region of Kabardino-Balkaria, Elbrus is the highest mountain in Europe and is also one of the 'Seven Summits' - the highest points on each of the world's seven continents. Elbrus is a mountain not to be underestimated and even though an easy snow and ice climb it is not to be taken for granted.

Our ascent route is technically easy, but the final day of the climb is much more strenuous and more serious then many reports suggest. It was first climbed 1847 by a British party of climber of Moore, Gardiner and Walker. The mountain lays in the central Caucasus, a region famous for sudden storms and featureless slopes in bad conditions it requires considerable respect. It's height and atmospheric conditions can throw a spanner into the works just when you think you're about to accomplish your objective. Elbrus is an ideal mountain for those who wish to progress from hill walker / trekker to high altitude general mountaineering to the greater ranges, this is an ideal peak for those that want to make this transition.

It requires techniques on snow and ice at high altitude, which we'll spend a few days training for on the glaciers. Elbrus is a worthwhile objective being Europe's highest mountain and situated in a very interesting part of the world. It is important that anyone attempting this mountain that they have a good fitness level.

The Volatile Caucasus

Between the Caspian and the Black Sea lies the jagged mountain range of the Caucasus, which creates a natural geographic boundary that divides Europe and Asia. This area is one of the most Volatile in the World, 50 different ethnic groups seek independence with recognition for their customs, beliefs and their freedom from repressive regimes. This area is one of the most interesting places on earth and it gives us a chance to explore the wonders of this otherwise war-torn region by visiting the peaceful region of Kabardino Balkaria which is situated in the Central Caucasus and our destination for our attempt on Mt. Elbrus. This rugged area of snow capped mountains which divide Europe and Asia is the focal point for Russian climbing.

Special notice

Due to the fact that this is situated near Chychne we will be taking advise of the Russian Embassy on political situation in the area at time of expedition. This area is rated as high risk which adds an additional risk that must be taken into consideration.

Mineral-Ni-Vody

From Ireland we make our way to Moscow before continuing our journey on a 2000 km flight south to the sprawling city of Mineral-Ni-Vody, which is were our expedition starts from. We drive a 150 km to our base at Terskol which is situated in the Baksen Valley. From here we'll visit the Adyl-su Valley and return to this village before we climb Elbrus.

Terskol

This is a small village at the end of the Baksen Valley and in the Soviet Union times was also a popular place for the Russian Military to winter holiday and Skiing amongst the beautiful mountains of the central Caucasus. This was such a popular destination for the high-ranking Russian officers and KGB that they build a 200-bed hotel especially for them. Now this hotel is in disrepair and a shadow of its former self. The people of this peaceful region are amongst the most friendly that I've come across in my world travels.

The Adyl-su Valley

This is our training base camp for nearly a week. While here we acclimatize and train in the art of ice techniques and attempt to climb Gumatchi at 3810 meters and if time allows we also attempt a 4200-meter mountain in the Adyl-Su valley. These mountains are technically easy snow and glacier climbs, but does require to be competent in snow and ice techniques, which we train for first on this expedition. From our acclimatization climb we make our way on to Elbrus to climb it.

Special equipment required: Ice Axe Crampons Plastic Mountaineering boots Helmet Four Season sleeping bag.
A complete gear list will be supplied on booking

Training for Elbrus

We will have training sessions throughout the year for those interested in attempting this Mountain in the Caucasus. It will require a good level of fitness and a commitment to bring yourself to the standard of mountaineering to undertake an expedition like this. You will need to be able to use crampons, ice axe and some basic rope techniques to undertake this expedition. See Skills Training - Snow and Ice, Rope Training, Navigation Course and Camp Craft. If you are interested in this expedition please contact Pat Falvey, call to the Mountain Lodge, Beaufort, Killarney or ring 064 44181.

Risk assessment of Elbrus route

 

1 Risk assessment '

2 danger points

3 summit push timings

4 Food and drink

5 important Heights on Elbrus.

 

1: Risk assessment; report August

There is a number of danger points that a person should be aware of, depending on the weather conditions on the mountain.

 

 The route on Elbrus  should not be under estimate. Between the 1st august and our summiting on the 7th August 4 people had lost their lives to Elbrus. 11 people died in one day at the end of May. safety and vigilance is called for at all times on the climb.

 

2: Danger Points on the mountain;

 The main danger on Elbrus  is on the final summit push. We have listed the potential risk areas and timings it should take an average fit hillwalker to achieve the climb in.

 

We recommend that all parties take a rope, harness's a few ice screws and helmets. Especially if the team has limited experience in crampon and ice axe usage. The conditions of snow and ice can change frequently with the main danger being hard ice. From the pastukhove rocks to the col and the traverse from the col to the summit plateau, in good snow conditions dangers will be minimized significantly and depending on the experience of the group a decision can be made on what equipment to take.

 

3: Summit push timings

Rising time                                                             2-3 am

Pruit to pastukhove rocks allow                                2hrs

Rocks to turning for traverse                                    1.5 hrs

Traverse to col                                                        3hrs

Rest at col                                                              .5hrs

Col to summit                                                         1.5hrs

Summit                                                                                          .5hrs

Return to pruit from summit.                                     3.5hrs   

 

Total                                                 =                   12.5h

This is based on an average fit group.

 

The route can be done faster and can also take a group an extra 1 to 2 hours to complete. You can judge the fitness of the group during acclimatization treks.

 

If you do not meet recommended times you should give consideration to turning from a summit bid.

 

Some people will stay at the Barrels at a lower altitude but if you were to climb from here this would add another 3 to 4 hours to your day.

 

Note:

Some people take a snow rat track from the Pruit or the Barrels huts to the Pastukove Rocks which can reduce the timing on the final day of the expedition and increases the chances of success for the average expedition member.

 

 

4: Food and drink

Make sure that you have enough food and water with you to sustain your energy for the day.

 

 2 litres of water with energy powder and enough food to sustain you for a long arduous day on the mountain.

 

People differ in their requirements on the mountain.

 

5: Important focal point on Elbrus with relevant  heights

 

Azu cable car station.                                          2180 meters

Krugozor Station.                                                3000 meters

Mir Station.                                                         3470 meters

Garabashi Barrels.                                              3800 meters

Priut Huts.                                                          4157 meters

Pastukhove rocks.                                               4690 meters

Saddle.                                                              5416 meters

Elbrus west.                                                        5642 meters

Elbrus east.                                                        5622 meters

Difference of high and low summit.                          20 meters

 

 

Report  August 2006

 

Pat Falvey

 

Expedition Leader

 

Natasha Ter Gazaryan: Our Russian co-ordinator

Natasha lives in Moscow and is very well connected within the Russian climbing world, she has travelled extensively throughout the world on climbing expeditions. Natasha has been in charge of our ground support staff and guides in Russia for over 8 years and she speaks perfect English and a great outgoing personality that gives her all to ensure our clients have a perfect expedition.

She has adventured in most of the climbing regions in Russia and has climbed Elbrus on numerous occasions. Has had many noteworthy ascents in the Pamirs and on Ushbia on the boarder of Georgia.

Natasha was born in Georgia of Polish and Armenian parents and moved to Moscow in 1980. Her husband Vladimir Bashkirov was one of Russia’s strongest climbers and completed 9 of the 8000 rs having done 5 in one year, but lost his life in a tragic accident on Lhotse in 1997. Natasha has two sons Andrei and Sergei who has also the outdoor spirit for adventure.

Our Irish Elbrus team's bio's can be also see on our team page.

Pat Falvey, Ger McDonnell, Gerry Walsh Joe O Leary.