Trekkers march into Base Camp - May 21

This morning we woke up, at Base Camp Wyeth, full of expectation.
The group that had left Ireland a while back were due to arrive today.
We all busied ourselves packing away supplies and getting the place ready for our visitors. By mid morning we knew that they were close, perhaps an hour away. It was time for tea as most of the packing was finished. Pat was standing in the door of the mess tent, when he announced ‘they’re here’. We looked out and there they were. There was no mistaking them. High above the wa terproof clad people was the Green White and Orange, carried by Brian Mellerick. A very simple word can describe the feelings in the camp, as we watched the Tricolour work towards us - Pride. A second tricolour was carried by Thomas Gormally, while the Red and White Cork flag was held aloft by Sean O’Flynn.
Going out to meet them and shaking their hands was a pleasure. They had come all this way to meet us. Walking into Base Camp Wyeth was their Everest. Some looked tired, but all had arrived safely. Dropping their bags, they made their way into the mess tent.

Hot lemon, tea and coffee were served. Dawe produced a lunch that consisted of soup, fried eggs with and fried potatoes. Lots of chat and then it was time to go. The weather was not good, cloud was gathering and snow was likely. They were to return to Gorak Shep and climb to the top of Kalar Pata the following morning. There was time for photographs before their departure - including one of Gerry Reidy and Adrian with the Banner Colours held aloft, the Saffron and Blue had been hanging over the base set radio for weeks.

We watched as they made their way over the Khumbu glacier. It was great that they had made to the base camp, particular as the weather had been bad all morning.

Names of Trekking Group

Jerry Walsh, Cait O’Riordan, Thomas Gormally, Grainne O’Callaghan, Mary O’Callaghan, Sean O’Flynn, Thomas John Beausang, Philip Cullen, Brian Mellerick, Gerry Reidy, Timothy Beary, Francis Monaghan,
Joseph Monaghan, Roy Foley, Mary Thornbury, Eamon Muldowney
They were accompanied by Tim Orr, who along with Eamon and Sheila was going to climb Island Peak.

When they were gone we busied ourselves with the rest of the packing. We had decided that we would leave tomorrow and descend with the trekkers. It would be nice to have their company.

Base Camp Wyeth to Lobouche - May 22

Clare, Pat, Sheila and Adrian left Base Camp Wyeth for Gorak Shep. When we arrived, we met up with all the May Trekking Group. It was great to be heading out with such a great bunch of lively people. For those of us who had been on or below Everest for a couple of months, it was important to share the success of the expedition with those who had travelled from Ireland to Nepal. It was good to be with all the people that had travelled out to be part of history.

In Gorak Shep we had a nice lunch. Clare left the group at this stage as she wanted to meet her brother Kevin and Grainne Long, who were on their way to Namche Bazaar. Laughter, banter, smiles and chatting and afterwards we headed off to Lobouche. On arrival we settled into our accommodation. After dinner, the sing song began. Long into the night songs and poetry we heard. ‘If ‘ by Rudyard Kipling, was read out by Sean. This was somewhat fitting as everyone present had achieved so much in their own way.

Lobouche to Debouche - May 23

The following morning we awoke to somewhat better weather. The group headed to Debouche. We stopped briefly at the Everest Memorials to say prayers or just think about those who died on the mountain. A poignant moment and time for reflection. We dropped down to Dughla and continued on Pheriche for lunch.

After lunch we bade farewell to Sheila, Tim, Eamon and Nima who were going to Island Peak. The remainder of the group descended quickly to Debouche. We stayed in the Ama Dablam Lodge that night.Debouche to

Namche Bazaar - May 24

Pat and Adrian headed of early to get to Namche to try to get the IT and communications working. All the others went later and stopped for a while at Tengboche to see once more the beautiful monastery. It was good to be heading down. Both Pat and Adrian noticed that the scenery had changed dramatically in the last couple of months. Flowers were blooming and grass was growing. The post monsoon growth was in full swing. Butterflies and other insects flew about, while bird song from the trees was a delight.

When Pat and Adrian arrived in Namche Bazaar, they met Clare, Kevin and Grainne. Adrian went to the Internet Café, to enlist Pemba to help sort the IT and Communication problems. At long last success, we managed to get some information out. A great night was had in Namche Bazaar.

Namche Bazaar to Lukla - May 25

The trekking group was up early. They had to leave at 07.30hrs. It was a long trek to Namche Bazaar and it was important to leave before the heat of the day. Lunch was in Phakding. Pat, Clare, Pemba, Rinji, Grainne, Kevin and Adrian stayed as a helicopter had been ordered. The weather was not suitable for flying. After waiting for many hours, it transpired that no helicopters would fly that day - due to weather.

Pat, Clare, Kevin, Grainne, Adrian, Pemba, Rinji left Namche Bazaar just at lunch time and sped down the hillside. Adrian was unwell and went at a slower pace accompanied by Pemba. On the way Adrian and Pemba learned of another reason why there were no helicopters flying to Namche. Those that could fly in cloud were involved in a search.

A Yeti Airlines cargo aircraft had left Kathmandu and had not arrived in Lukla. An air search revealed that the aeroplane had crashed into the steep hills to the south of Lukla. Three people had died, there were no survivors. Adrian and Pemba met several climbers, who until several days ago were on the slopes of Everest and were now rushing to get their climbing gear to help in the recovery mission.

Jerry and Ang Rita welcome the last of us into Lukla. They were in jovial mood. It was an act on their part. They also knew about the crash. At the end of the dinner all were informed about the tragedy. It was important that everyone was aware why those living in Lukla were not in buoyant mood.

Later in the evening a large M17 helicopter arrived to carry the mountaineers to above the crash site. Lhakpa, a friend and member of the Irish Team was one of the first to be ready. They had over 500 feet to abseil to recover the bodies of their kinsmen. A sad day for the people of Lukla The mountain community relies on the airlines and many would be related to aircrew - including those who had been killed.

The crash and resulting deaths brings home how harsh the mountain environment can be and how easy things can go wrong. As the night began, Monks started prayers and rituals for the dead and for the safe return of the rescuers.

Lukla to K athmandu - May 26

06.00hrs. Yeti Airlines cancelled all flights today. All aircraft were grounded due to checks. This was known from the previous evening and Ang Rita and his friends had worked through the night to get all of us out. This was particular hard for him as he knew those in the crash.

Nevertheless at 06.30am the news arrived, here were 5 seats on the next flight with Sita Air. Pat, Clare, Kevin, Grainne and Adrian covered the mile to the airstrip and were met by Ang Rita. All his people had the boarding passes ready. At 07.00hrs the aircraft took off.

On arrival we were met by Mingma, who immediately whisked us away to the Thamel Hotel. He told us that all the others would be on the next few flights. At the hotel he looked for details those who wanted to try to get earlier flights home.

The rest of the day was spent strolling around Kathmandu. Shopping and sightseeing took up time. Some of the lads shaved and had haircuts. Kevin and Grainne got the news that they were on a flight at 20.00hrs and headed for the airport at 17.30hrs. Others also had managed to get tickets changed. Mingma was doing great work and was busy trying to get additional flights changed.

It was time to eat and a table was booked at the Rum Doodle. For those of you who know the graphic account of this truly wonderful climbing adventure by W.E. Bowman, you would understand the importance of dining here. For those who are not aware of the epic involving Tom Burley, Christopher Wish, Donald Shute, Humphrey Jungle, Lancelot Constant and Ridley Prone - I will borrow the words of O.Totter:
"Read this book twice, so should everybody who honours courage and enterprise”

We were joined by Alan Hinkes. Later a friend from EBC, Tim, joined us for dinner. He was putting the final touches to the Friendship Beyond Borders Expedition, that had seen a Sherpa known to many for his bravery summit Everest, his bravery was not just for climbing, but for climbing Everest with an artificial leg.

CHECK OUT THE STORY ON THE FOLLOWING WEB ADDRESS - SEE WHAT CAN BE ACHIEVED

www.everestnews2004.com/everest2004/sherpa-tomexpedition2004up2.htm


It was a pleasant evening spent in great company. To sit and eat in an establishment that was inspired by high adventure above the Rankling La in the Yogistan was a privilege.

Many photographs were taken and the Traditional Footprint was signed by everyone at our table. Clare chose the spot on the wall and we watched proudly as it was nailed to the wall.

All, bar one hotel bound brave, headed off into the Kathmandu darkness to locate further entertainment - a perfect spot to practice night navigation. After finding somewhere to re-hydrate, some were good navigators and were tucked up just after 01.00hrs. Others perhaps need more practice as the last to cross the post was nearer 05.00hrs. - much too much of the Humphrey Jungle - The Wanderer - approach.

All in all a splendid time, great fun, company, food, fantastic location in a night that all too soon became the morning. Alan Hinkley

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Click here to see the Everest summit shots!


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Success on Island Peak


At 7:44am on the 25th May, Tim Orr and Sheila Kavanagh (pictured) stood on the summit of Imja Tse (Island Peak) 20,305ft.



Dispatch 49 - May 20


It is 09.00hrs here and those of us at Base Camp Wyeth are just about to depart to welcome our climbers down.

They have started to descend the Ice Fall. We can not see them as the falling snow has visibility down to about 10m. The reliable Motorola radios again come up trumps.

We have been in radio contact with the approaching group of trekkers. They are expecting to get to Base Camp Wyeth around 12.00hrs tomorrow.

Later today we hope to send more details, but are experiencing some
IT problems which I hope to fix after we greet our 8 returning friends.

May 20 continued

Apologies for the lack of information, but we have experienced interference from weather that has impacted on our satellite connection. We also have had trouble with recharging essential pieces of electronic equipment. But we are back, thanks to the help I got from Dawe and Da Rinji - Adrian.

All the climbers have safely arrived at Base Camp Wyeth. They have eaten well and are resting. Sheila, Dawe and Adrian went to meet the climbers as they came down the Ice Fall. It was great to see them all coming. Lamababu, Jangbu, Pemba, Nang Chemmi, Lhakpa Ongchhu, Clare, Pat and Tensing.

It was hugs, smiles laughs and tears. They all looked well. We all made our way back through the Ice Fall. As we approached Base Camp Wyeth we could see a large number of people gathered about our tents. Da Rinji was standing there with a beaming smile, surrounded by other Sherpas from different expeditions.

It was a fantastic welcome. More hugs and congratulations and then the
rucksacks were dropped. We all entered the mess tent and settled down to coke, tea, coffee and hot chocolate. Soon the food appeared and yet again Da Rinji produced a lovely meal.

Clare, Pat and all the rest of us ate heartily at 11.00hrs. The talk
started and soon we started to hear about the descent from Camp 2 Lowe Alpine.

Their descent started at 06.00hrs in windy conditions, snow was falling
and extreme care had to be taken as visibility was difficult at times. The
cloud was thick and at times only 5m ahead could be seen. When they got lower visibility increased to about 10m. They were able to see hints of base camp below. They were delighted to see us as they came over an ice ridge.


Breaking down Camp 2 Lowe Alpine


Taking down the gear


Clare heading back down through the Khumbu Icefall for the last time


After eating, Clare, Pat and Pemba gave Adrian the batteries, cameras,
films and radios. The c limbers went off to change. Unfortunately, much
of the electrical equipment started giving problems and this has kept Adrian busy for the afternoon. The satellite phone is also on the blink
and Adrian is trying hard to sort this one out - a challenge indeed.

Many visitors from other expeditions have been calling in throughout the
afternoon. At long last we have managed to download images from cards to the Dell laptop. We just have to wait for it to be charged up. Satellite
is now reloaded and so here is the latest despatch.

Pat and Clare are writing up the Summit Day and we hope to be able to
bring you this in the very near future.

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Dispatch 48 - May 19

Just after 02.00hrs Base Camp Wyeth was noisy due a strong wind.
This was not the forecast. Getting up, I knew that weather updates
were essential. Communications systems were made ready and
routine checks carried out.

I had the latest weather ready at 05.00hrs. Later the radio came to life. Climbers were leaving High Camp Wyeth. The wind is strong and they would not answer radio calls, only make them. This is because descending from the South Col requires both hands at all times.

The latest weather forecast is for strong winds. Speeds of up to 50mph; and these are expected to rise in the afternoon. The strongest winds are expected over 7500m. This is why the team are descending to Camp 2 Lowe Alpine. All climbers from other expeditions are also descending.
The tropical depression in the Bay of Bengal had been upgraded to a Tropical Cyclone. This has led to large increases in wind speed. Convection also increased, which up here leads to greater
precipitation - snow.

Just received radio call from Camp 3 Spórt Corrán Tuathail. Lhakpa has started to dismantle the Vaude tents in readiness for descending to Camp 2 Lowe Alpine. The rate of descent is good. All the others have just arrived at the camp.

Pemba announced that everybody was thirsty, but to stop and melt ice would take too long. Dawe immediately contacted Tensing at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine and relayed the news. Tensing had his insulated bag ready packed with high energy juices, snacks and his personal high altitude gear. He embarked immediately up the Western Cwm to meet the others on their way down.

Camp 3 Spórt Corrán Tuathail has been dismantled and all are heading down. More details after we talk to the team. This will happen after they are settled in Camp 2 Lowe Alpine.

19th May continued

We have just received a radio call that all members of the team are safely at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine. They are all well, but tired. They have eaten well and are settling down to rest. They plan to descend early in the morning and hope to be at Base Camp Wyeth about midday.
Pat also revealed some details of the rescue on Everest last night. Pemba and Lamababu were involved in getting climbers that were in difficulties back to the South Col. This morning people from all expeditions assisted in evacuation to lower altitude and over steep ground. Jangbu accompanied one climber all the way to Camp 3.

At Base Camp Wyeth, Dawe and Adrian had known about the emergency up higher as they were helping to co-ordinate things at EBC between various parties as our Motorola Radios were the only ones that transmitted and received perfectly - and clearer than any time before when contacting that altitude.

Special message to Brian at Sigma Wireless in Cork

When you and Fidelma were here a couple of weeks ago, I told you that the range and signal are excellent and they perform better than the specifications. I think I also said that during several days testing in hostile mountain environment that they performed admirably. In fact I think I might have said that apart from user created problems they are a great communications system. Last night when it really matter they were reliable as ever. When bad weather conditions, caused by electrical charges and varying air pressures, interrupted other radio broadcasts the Motorola was the perfect companion.

The GM 360 Base Set and the GP340 Handsets are just brilliant - and so say all of us. A big thank you from me on behalf of all those at the different Base Camps. A very big even huge thank you from those people on the mountain, who from dusk to dawn absolutely needed radio contact.

The Base Set and handsets are brilliant - thank you Sigma Wireless
and Motorola

In the early of hours of the morning, we received the good news that most of those who had been in danger were now relatively safe at Camp 3 and others had made it to Camp 2.

At no stage were any of our team in danger. Those involved in the rescue and evacuation were tired, but are now resting at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine. At present it is snowing hard at Everest Base Camp, these conditions that started at 15.00hrs are expected to last for 24hrs.

We have just received news that the trekkers are in Lobuche. They are staying the night there. We hope to see them soon. Among this group are Nima Sherpa, Tim Orr and Eamon Muldowney. They are joining Sheila Kavanagh in her expedition to climb the 20,305ft Imja Tse, also known as Island Peak.

Thanks to Sheila Kavangh

Sheila arrived at Base Camp Wyeth in April. She immediately embarked on a very fast learning curve in relation to the expedition’s radio and satellite communications system.

Within a few days Sheila mastered the operation. This was essential so that my work load could be shared.

Being a sociable person, Sheila made many friends among the support teams from different expeditions. These friends shared many cups of tea with both Sheila and me. These friendships meant that mutual help was always at hand when needed.

We support teams were able to assist each other with any IT and Communication problems. Such problems occur regularly with delicate technology in such a harsh environment.

I spent up to 2 hours every morning and the same in the evening getting and analysing weather reports. Sheila always helped in checking the numbers. This help with the weather forecast analysis ensured accuracy in my calculations. Sheila also managed to keep to a rigid training programme in preparation for her climb of Imja Tse.

Sheila made a huge contribution to the running of the communications system. Her understanding of the operation made my life easier. This was the specially the case over the last few days during our team’s summit attempt, success and subsequent difficult descent.

Thanks Sheila,

Adrian

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18th May - 3pm

Pat has made radio contact with Base Camp Wyeth from inside his tent at High Camp Wyeth. They are staying the night and will descend tomorrow. On the way they have to break up Camp 3 Spórt Corrán Tuathail and bring everything from there to Camp 2 Lowe Alpine. This is where they will spend the night. Tensing will have a good nutritional meal with plenty of hot drinks ready when they arrive.

Pat says that they are all well, but tired. He wants to thank all those
who have helped them over the last year. He also expressed his heartfelt appreciation for the many people who have followed this expedition through the website and to the many thousands of encouraging e-mails that have been received.

He added that they all plan to descend early in the morning and hope to be settled in Camp 2 Lowe Alpine by the afternoon. Pat hopes to be able to transmit some photographs to Base Camp Wyeth for us to send on. However the wind and low air pressure are causing difficulty today.

We will have more news as events evolve tomorrow. Here at Base Camp Wyeth, it is 19.10hrs on Tuesday 18th May 2004 and we are about to have dinner. When finished eating, Dawe, Da Rinji, Sheila and I are heading to bed. We have not seen our tents or sleeping bags since Sunday at 03.00hrs. It has been a great few days full of excitement. Tomorrow we rise at 05.00hrs, back to normal. The climbers need precise weather details to plan their descent.

On behalf of all my friends here at Base Camp - Dawe, Da Rinji, and Sheila, I would like to thank all the congratulation message that we have received today - and they are still coming in.

Sheila and I would also like to thank our families and friends for all their support, since our involvement in this Irish Wyeth Everest Expedition 2004 began.

This is a day that none of us involved will ever forget.

Adrian Rahill

Talk to you in the morning
Goodnight
Base Camp Wyeth Out.


18th May 2004 Message of congratulations to Dr Clare O’Leary

President McAleese has conveyed her heartfelt congratulations to
Dr Clare O’Leary on becoming the first Irish woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest.

The President commended Dr O’Leary on her triumph which was
‘ a testament to the determination and talent of both you and your support team’. “The people of Ireland are tremendously proud of your success and join with you today in your celebrations”, said the President.


12.00 noon, May 18


Base Camp Wyeth just received radio call from the South Col. Pemba reports that everyone is well. There are going to eat, drink and rest a while. The wind is stronger than forecasted. After their break they are going to make a decision about staying at High Camp Wyeth - South Col, or dropping down to Camp 3 Spórt Corrán Tuathail.

They will make their decision in about 1 hour. As soon as we at Base Camp Wyeth know of their plans, we will send another update.

Dispatch 47 - May 18

Great News! Irish Wyeth Everest Expedition reaches the summit at 06.45 hrs (local time) today.

The summit push started last night when over the radio came the message that the climbers were leaving High Camp Wyeth. The wind was strong, but the night was clear. At Base Camp Wyeth we waited and listened for radio contact. Sheila and Adrian monitored the weather; the wind was due to rise to about 23 mph and then decrease to 18mph. We listened to reports from Pemba that the wind was stronger than forecasted.

As the night drew into the early hours of the morning we were joined by many Sherpa. They had come to be with us. By 02.00hrs, there were many visitors; such is the respect for Dawe, Pat and the Irish Camp. Prayers, burning of incense and juniper, singing and dancing throughout the night. Any time the radio crackled there was absolute silence. All faces staring at the radio. At 5.00am a call came that all climbers were at the South Summit. Many of our guests said that within 60 - 90 minutes, they would be at the summit.

At 6.00 all singing stopped and everyone stared at the radio. In the silence of the mess tent, only quiet whispers could be heard. After 45 minutes of tension filled silence the radio light came on and we heard Pemba.

It was 06.45hrs. The summit had been reached. Dawe and Pemba spoke for several minutes. The rest of us just stared in silence. After the radio broadcast, Dawe relayed the news. All safely at summit, wind was strong and they were heading down, there would be no more radio contact until they were safely at High Camp Wyeth. This was followed
by several seconds of silence and then deafening cheering.

Sheila managed to get Satellite connection and Adrian sent the news back to The Mountain Lodge. Here an all night vigil was being kept by Gillian and Sinead. The news was sent by several channels - to ensure delivery, as we had experienced many communication problems in the previous 20 hours.

The singing and dancing went in to full swing. Needless to say the neighbours did wake up, Sherpa music accompanied by many loud Sherpa voices. After a while the music stopped, the singing eased and crowd started to go their own way. Many of these Sherpa had climbed with Pat on previous expeditions and asked us to relay their congratulations to those on the hill, when next in radio contact.

It was great to have had such company and support. One non Sherpa guest said he had never seen anything like it, but then something special exists between Sherpa and the Irish as all Sherpa, irrespective of role are considered full and equal members of any expedition organised by Pat.
Even now at 09.30, Sherpa climbers, Sirdars, and Base Camp Managers are calling to convey congratulations. According to Dawe, the Irish are even a bigger attraction here this year than last year. He says it is because we have helped so many others here, with medicine and weather and computers.

As more news comes down from mountain we will send it on to you.

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FIRST IRISH WOMAN REACHES TOP OF EVEREST

Thirty three year old, Dr Clare O'Leary from Bandon, Co Cork was this morning, Tuesday 18th May, the first ever Irish woman to reach the 29,035 ft summit of Mount Everest.

The Wyeth Irish Everest Expedition 2004 team led by veteran Cork mountaineer, Pat Falvey, who is now the first Irish person to summit Everest from both the Nepal and Tibetan approaches, reached the summit at 6.45 am local time (1.45 am Irish time) after a 9 hour push from the team's high camp at 26,000 ft. Today's success came at the end of two months on the mountain in preparation for the final climb by
a team that includes Nepali and Irish climbers.

Speaking on satellite phone from the summit, expedition leader, Pat Falvey said their climb had gone according to plan. He added: "The weather was superb and we held up to savour the immense thrill and history of our achievement where for a few minutes, Clare stood on the summit of the highest peak on Earth - making the first Irish female ascent of Everest. We have done what we set out to achieve and I'm
just so excited."

Dr Clare O'Leary spoke to her parents Kevin and Alice and her sister Carol by telephone (her brother Kevin is in Nepal) and expressed through elation and exhaustion just how amazing the experience is, "I set out on St. Patrick's Day with one goal in mind and that was to reach the top and I've done it. I'm really proud to have this honour. We had a very strong team under Pat's leadership and I am very grateful to him and my Nepali team-mates. The experience from our previous attempt has paid off this year and I can hardly express my happiness," she said.
Falvey and O'Leary's second expedition to Everest within twelve months was organised with two core objectives in mind - to achieve the first Irish female ascent and first Irish climber to summit from both Nepal and Tibet.

The final day's climb was made at altitudes know to climbers as 'The Death Zone', where the human body undergoes significant deterioration and where the drive to summit must be tempered with maintaining oxygen-starved minds alert to objective dangers, sudden weather changes and the climbers own physical and mental conditions in order
to return safely. Oxygen levels at the summit are just 30% of those at sea level and on this climb, the supplememtary bottled oxygen was
used by the climbers on the final summit day at altitudes over 26,000 ft.
Pat Falvey said that his main concern now is to get himself and the
team back down to base camp as safely as possible, "The Expedition now down the mountain is a very dangerous one. I am just praying that everyone makes it down safe and well and then we can celebrate with our team here in Nepal before making our way home," he said.

One of the very earliest congratulations to the team came from mountaineer, Ger McDonnell from Limerick and living in Alaska. McDonnell reached the summit a year ago with Mick Murphy from West Cork on a trip led by Falvey, and that saw Clare O'Leary forced to abandon her climb with a stomach bug. Falvey himself suffering from hypoxia was turned around just 60metres and aided to safety by McDonnell. Ger McDonnell said; "My heartiest congratulations to the team, to Pat, the Sherpas, John Joyce and most of all to the first Irish woman to stand on any summit over 8000m, let alone the tallest of them all. Hats off to you Clare O'Leary! I only wish I could have been there to see it."

Mr Emmet Browne, Country Manager, Wyeth said that the company is delighted that the team have reached the summit of Mount Everest safely.

" As Ireland's leading pharmaceutical employer, we are delighted to be associated with such an historic event. It was a tremendous effort by everybody involved and we now wish Pat Falvey, Dr Clare O'Leary and the Sherpas a safe return to base camp," Mr Browne continued.
The Irish expedition left Ireland on St Patrick's Day and over the past six weeks, the team prepared for their summit attempt through crucial acclimatisation climbs on the mountain's lower reaches while establishing camps and storing supplies to aid them in their summit bid.

Four weeks ago, team member John Joyce from Tuam Co Galway was forced to abandon the climb due to exhaustion and altitude sickness. Jet stream winds blowing at speeds of up to 70mph forced Pat Falvey and Clare O'Leary off the mountain last week in order to preserve their strengths at lower altitudes.

To date, five Irish people have reached the summit of Mount Everest:
Dawson Stelfox - 1993
Pat Falvey - 1995 & 2004
Mick Murphy - 2003
Ger McDonnell - 2003
Terrence 'Banjo' Bannon - 2003
Clare O'Leary - 2004

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Dispatch 46 - May 17


At 5.00am the radio crackled into life. Tensing calling from Camp 2
Lowe Alpine announcing that Lhakpa, Nang Chemmi and Jangbu had
left at 3.00am and that they would call us when they arrived at High Camp Wyeth at the South Col.

Clare, Pat, Pemba and Lamababu have already left Camp 3 Spórt
Corrán Tuathail for High Camp Wyeth.

Meanwhile, at Base Camp Wyeth, Adrian and Sheila monitor weather forecasts and check power sources every few hours. It is vital that everything works so that constant communication is possible with the climbers. There were a few IT and Communication problems, but between Sheila and Adrian the problems were overcome. Dawe and
Rinji have checked that the generator and backup generator are in working order.

At 12.20pm Lhakpa called Base Camp Wyeth. He and and Lamababu have arrived at the South Col. They have erected the tents at High Camp Wyeth and have started to melt the ice so that hot drinks can be had. Lhakpa also reports that Clare, Nang Chemmi, Jangbu, Pemba and
Pat have just arrived.

The climbers are now going to eat, drink and rest for the next 8 hours
or so. The weather is looking good. Late tonight they will depart for the summit. Sheila and Adrian will bring you more updates as events occur.

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Dispatch 45 - May 16

Nang Chemmi left Base Camp Wyeth at 6.00am. He is the last of our climbers to depart for the summit attempt. He moved quickly and was seen to disappear over the top of the ice fall after a couple of hours.
Just after 9.00am, Pat called to announce that they were pushing up to Camp 3 Spórt Corrán Tuathail. Weather details were relayed and Pat signed off saying he would call when they settled in to the next camp.

Meanwhile Nang Chemmi radioed from Camp 1 to say he was having a break and something to eat and drink. We informed him that the others had moved up the mountain, but that Lhakpa and Jangbu was staying to climb with him tomorrow. Soon after he called to say he was pushing on to Camp 2 Lowe Alpine. Here Tensing had food and drink ready for him.
Lhakpa, Jangbu and Nang Chemmi are staying in Camp 2 Lowe Alpine tonight. They will leave at 3.00am and push straight through to our High Camp Wyeth on the South Col.

Clare, Pat, Pemba and Lamababu are also due to arrive at the South Col tomorrow. All will rest there and hopefully will begin their summit attempt around midnight.

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Dispatch 44 - May 15

Base Camp Wyeth was hopping this morning. There had been an electrical problem that had to be fixed in time for radio weather broadcasts. Adrian had only reconnected the power to the radio base set, when Pat called - perfect timing. Phew!

All at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine were in good form and had slept well.


Enjoying the sunshine at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine

Weather details were discussed. Weather still looks promising. More importantly, the Jet Stream and its destructive powers are expected to stay well away to the North and West of the region for at least 5 more days. Still, it is vital to continually monitor weather details from as many sources as possible.

Every climber is staying at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine tonight. The rest of the day will be spent resting and taking in nourishment. Eating well and drinking plenty of fluid is vital for success. Tomorrow, any movement upward will be dictated by the weather forecasts. These will be available later today.

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Dispatch 43 - May 14

Today was an early start. Just after 3.00am Rinji and Dawe were up to get breakfast ready for the climbers. This is the beginning of the summit push. The climbers and the support team were up by 3.30am.

At 4.00pm Pemba, Pat and Clare were tucking into a good breakfast. Sheila and Adrian just drank tea from large stainless steel mugs that also served to warm cold hands. They would have their breakfast later.
Base Camp Wyeth had been bustling and now everything was ready for the off. At 5.00am Clare, Pat and Pemba left. At 5.30 Tensing left and was followed an hour later by Lhakpa, Jangbu and Lamababu. By 7.00am all the climbers could be made out as small dots in the
expanse of the icefall high above.


Clare crossing a crevasse in the Khumbu Icefall


The climbers reaching the top of the Khumbu Icefall


Weather was monitored throughout the morning. A radio call from Pat at midday announced their arrival at Camp 1 - 5943m (19,500ft). Everyone was fine and they were having a well deserved break. Shortly afterwards the radio crackled to life - they were on their way to Camp 2 Lowe Alpine - 6492m (21,300ft).

Around 6.00pm we heard from Pat, that they had arrived safely and were feeling strong. They were settling down to a meal prepared by Tensing and would call later for weather details. Just after 8.00pm weather forecasts were discussed over the radio. The current forecast looks promising for the next few days.

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Dispatch 42 - May 13

Yesterday evening Clare and Pat returned early from their rest in Dingboche. This is because of promising weather conditions received.
It appears that a window exists between 15th and 18th. This is an opportunity to make a fast summit push.

For several hours last night, the team examined various weather forecasts. Discrepancies between the wind speed and temperatures were scrutinised. After much analysis a decision was made.

Today will be used to pack all necessary supplies for a summit push. Food, fuel, medical supplies and communications equipment all have to checked and packed. At 7.00am, Base Camp Wyeth is bustling with activity. While the climbers have to concentrate on their own duties, the support team have to ensure that all communications systems are functional. Everyone has to be sure that they have their work done.
Monitoring of weather forecasts keeps the climbers informed of any changes. Presently it appears that until the 18th looks good. Yet, the various sources have slight differences in the forecasts. Varying wind speeds and temperatures are reasons for constant vigilance. It is important for weather analysis to be as accurate as possible.

Pemba has arrived back from his rest early also. He too saw the change in the weather and left Namche yesterday and stayed in Pheriche last night. He arrived here at 9.00am this morning.

Final adjustments and checking of all equipment is taking place as food, fuel and medical supplies are sorted out and packed.

Camp 1, Camp 2 Lowe Alpine and Camp 3 Spórt Corrán Tuathail are established and are ready to support a summit attempt.


Eating well at Camp 2


Camp 3 Spórt Corrán Tuathail


Supplies have been left at the High Camp Wyeth at the South Col.
All the climbers - Sherpa and Irish - are fit, strong and well prepared.
On the 14th the climbers will depart for their summit attempt.

All that is needed is for the weather to hold.

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We received a phone call a couple of days ago at base camp from John Joyce. He was calling us all the way from Galway to wish us luck as we approach the last leg of the expedition. It was great to hear from him but also very sad for us that he couldn’t be with us at this time. We are happy to report that John is recovering well at home in Galway and is in great form. He would like to thank everyone for all the kind words and well wishes he has received over the past few weeks.

John has been back at work at his Insurance and Auctioneering business in Tuam since last week. "Its Great to be home safe and sound! At first I was content with the decision to come down off the mountain, however, as time goes by and as I am feeling stronger disappointment is building". "I am in close contact with Pat and Clare and am confident that they will make it".

John wishes to sincerely thank all those who sent cards, phoned and
e-mailed messages of support "It was over whelming how interested
and concerned people have been - my thanks to each and everyone of them". The amount of interest in County Galway in the expedition is immense, it seems it certainly caught peoples imaginations - The next week will be valid for Pat and Clare as they now have to position themselves on the South Co l to enable them have a bid at the summit".


 
 
 
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