EMERGENCY UPDATES ARE HERE (2 August)
K2BC NL 14.50 K2-time. (time changes with every update)
We now know why climbers halted in the Bottleneck. One of them fell and roke an arm or a leg. He is assisted down. That’s slowing it up.
You can open this article in full by clicking the title.
IMPORTANT MESSAGE FOR FRIENDS AND RELATIVES FROM GERARD.
GERARDS SATPHONE IS NOT WITH HIM. Pemba is using that satphone on his rescue mission.
We still do not know were Gerard is.
ONLY TO BE USED FOR HOME TEAM MEMBERS MARCO, GERARD, HUGUES, or somebody I mistakenly forgot
Members of Hugues d’Aubarede home team please send email
They did already so now we have the information!
STATUS AS FAR AS WE KNOW
The latest weatherinformation was send to Rescue coordination in K2BC.
K2BC can see 6 people standing still in the Bottleneck. Two HAP’s are on their way up.
ROELAND in K2BC
CAS en PEMBA (rescue team, and we are in contact)
WILCO just called Heleen. We are still searching for him.
MARCO left Bivouac whereabouts unknown
MARK (rescueteam We are in contact with him!)
JELLE has been seen in C2 from K2BC.
Explorersweb (thanks tom) is asking thuraya for the positions of the last 5 calls from the satphones from Wilco . We found Gerards phone. As soon as we receive that information it will be send to K2BC Coordination Centre
K2BC NL is in direct contact with:
Italian (Marco) Home team
French (Hugues) Home team
K2BC coordination centre
Norwegian home team members
OR PHONENUMBER 48012723 (Thanks Bjorn Sekkesaeter!!!)
Report Maarten Base camp K2 NL team.
This is the new article on the organisation of the ongoing rescue attempts at K2. In this part of the screen you will find NEW and IMPORTANT messages. At the end of this article an up to date list of people and whereabouts is published. You can open this article in full by clicking the title.
IMPORTANT MESSAGE FOR FRIENDS AND RELATIVES FROM GERARD. GERARDS SATPHONE IS NOT WITH HIM.
Pemba carried some stuff down from the summit In it is GER's satphone PEMBA is using Ger's satphone during the rescue. PLEASE STOP SENDING MESSAGES!!! to that satphone.
STATUS AS FAR AS WE KNOW The latest weather information was sent to Rescue coordination in K2BC. K2BC can see 6 people standing still in the Bottleneck. Two HAP's are on their way up. ROELAND in K2BC CAS en PEMBA (rescue team and we are in contact) WILCO just called Heleen. We are still searching for him. MARCO left Bivouac whereabouts unknown MARK (rescue team We are in contact with him!) JELLE on its way down to K2BC GERARD unknown HUGUES unknown Explorersweb (thanks tom) is asking thuraya for the positions of the last 5 calls from the satphones from Wilco .
2000 K2 time
The candles really worked. Wilco, Cas, Gerard and Pemba are at the summit of K2! All the way back to the source!
It is very late at K2. We said it before and repeat it again. Now the most difficult part will start. The summit is only half way ! Light a fresh candle. We at K2BC Netherlands will start celebrations only if they are back safe in C4.
This was Wilco’s third attempt to reach the summit of K2. It’s Cas second time. Gerard just became the FIRST Irishman to become a K2-summiteer. This is Pemba’s first K2 summit.
I will take a short moment to take my breath and wipe some tears from my face.
Keep your fingers crossed.
1600 K2 time - 1100 Irish time report
Cas picked up radio contact with Roeland in K2BC. Cas is the last in a row of approximately 17 climbers. They only have to go 400 meters to the top. Wilco is in front. Gerard and Pemba are both there. One or two Italians. Hugues is there and two Norwegians. The weather is perfect.
1145 K2 time report
Much to my regret I have to inform you that early this morning an accident occurred in the Bottleneck. The messages are erratic and chaotic but as far as I know now a (supposing) Serbian Climber fell several hundred meters down the Bottleneck.
I understand from Roeland that the Norit K2 team assisted in the accident, but are again above the Bottleneck and proceeding towards the traverse. At the moment I don’t have more information, because the communication is a bit chaotic on K2. We all have to wait for more information.
0600 k2 time report
Norit K2 members are complaining about cold feet, but it’s a fact they are moving much faster then expected. In fact they are ahead of schedule by two hours. Cas is observing some clouds in the valleys on the Chinese side of K2 and is wondering if they may become a problem. I think it’s a type of fog caused by condensation from the cold air down in the valleys. I will ask Ab Maas, our meteorologist and give him something to do tonight. You will find the original timetable below with all the major landmarks on the route to the summit of K2. Times will be given in K2 –time and NL-time.
(take in to account the accident with these times, prob 2-3hrs behind)
Start last climb
Back to C4
Images available from the www.noritk2.nl website or www.beyondendurance.ie website
Maarten Van Eck reports to us from the expedition headquarters in The Netherlands
Yes It’s on ! Tonight at 01.00 hrs K2 time they will ascend to the summit of K2.
The Norit K2 team : Wilco van Rooijen, Cas van de Gevel, Gerard McDonnell, Jelle Staleman and Pemba Gyalje Sherpa.
The weather looks brilliant ! No clouds and an expected wind speed of 4 meters per second.
Together with them are climbers from Italy, Norway, France, America, a few Koreans and one or two Serbs. They are all in C4 right now and resting and preparing the final summit bid.
I will be up all night long and will publish every time I receive news.
Maarten van Eck
Rolf Bae and Cecilie Skog
Report 29th July 2008
From Camp 2 on Abruzzi route
Well it went as we thought, the wind continued throughout the night and morning, so when we are at rest up here and wait. We take it as a rest and gather forces before we are to embark us up to C3, hopefully tomorrow. It is not really so much more to say, we relax and are by well-targeted. As soon as the wind turns and we will put in motion again to the top.
(translated from Norwegian from her blog at: http://www.vgb.no/32091)
Rolf Bae and Cecilie Skog, latest reporting from C2 on July 29, are well known in polar adventure. In 2000, Rolf Bae did a spectacular Antarctic traverse together with Eirik Sonneland and some years later, Bae returned to the ice with Cecilie, when it took the couple and a friend only 119 days (82 days on the ice) to reach both poles back to back, without airdrops and kites.
Rolf is a guide, trainer and expedition leader. We have worked with him in Norway, South Georgia and Greenland.
The last telephone call is from 4 o’clock in the morning (NL-time). Wilco reports that all Norit K2 team members are fully dressed and waiting in their badly damaged tents. They consider abandoning the summit attempt. I ask for a little thinking time. I will study the weather forecast and satellite images again and in the meantime Wilco will try to contact other expeditions on K2. The weather forecast does NOT show any signs of bad weather. The nearest precipitation is 300 kilometres to the south of K2 and the wind direction is North East. I sent a SMS message to Wilco’s satphone and try to contact Roeland van Oss who is in K2BC. Roeland is trying to find out what happened to Hugues, the Frenchman who climbed towards the shoulder yesterday. I just received a SMS that Hugues spent the night just below the shoulder and moves on to reach C4 on the shoulder of K2. No sign of Nick Rice who might have descended to C3 on the Abruzzi route. The wind decreased and the Norit K2 team decides to climb to C4 on the shoulder of K2.
It will be become a very special summit attempt. At the moment the climbers will reach the summit of K2 a total solar eclipse will take place north of the K2 location. At that moment in time the sun will be covered by 73% at the K2 location. NO effect is expected for the weather and the amount of available light will slightly decrease. For your information we publish a map where you can track the path of the total solar eclipse and the amount of shadow on different locations.
If all works out well and the Norit K2 team will reach C4 on the shoulder of K2 a final summit bid will take place this coming night. Base Camp Netherlands is fully prepared. The PC and telephones are charged. BRING IT ON!
It was 1.45am, Thursday July 31st when I receive the second phone call from C3 at 7160 meters altitude. The wind speed is increasing to a point where the Norit K2 team fear they may loose the tents.
Around 19.00 hr NL-time, I receive the first telephone call from Wilco. He has to shout to make the message clear. The wind is increasing. That’s unexpected and I promise him to call Ab Maas, our meteorologist. Ab immediately studies the model and satellite images. Nothing unusual can be detected. We suspect it’s an extreme form of a well known phenomenon in the mountains. During the day the valley and the mountain is heating up. The effect will be a wind blowing from the valley up to the colder parts of the mountain. A phenomenon well known by Paragliders and Wilco and myself use this effect in our paragliding adventures many times. The downside is that the same effect reverses at the end of the day. As soon as the sun sets the cold air from the mountaintops flow back into the valley thus creating the described winds. In this case extreme because K2 is an extreme mountain.
The second telephone call is at 0.45hr. (NL-time) in the early morning of Thursday. The wind is still increasing and the Norit K2 teams fear they may loose the tents. Again I call Ab and the poor man is running out of his bed to once again study the windmodels and satellite pictures. Nothing unusual can be detected. No unforeseen storms or strange things appear on the screens. We really do not know what is going on at K2. The models show a DECREASING windspeed. The only thing I can do is send a reassuring SMS with the message that in our opinion the effect must be very local and will not last much longer. I pray he will read this message in time and the windspeed will indeed decrease. Only time will tell.
Hugues, the Frenchman and Nick, The American started this morning from C3 to establish a temporary camp just below the shoulder of K2. Wilco did not think that would be a good idea because between C3 and the shoulder he could not find any place to pitch a tent. The latest report is that Nick and Hugues did not find a place either and had to continue climbing towards the shoulder of K2. We hope they foud a safe place to pitch a tent in these conditions. Nothing more is known about ther situation right now.
Expedition latest update
Cas NEVER uses to much words. It’s plain and simple. All expeditions are in K2BC. It’s very boring and they are spending their days reading, drinking coffee, reading books and talking (bullshit mostly). Some of the expeditions are leaving because they are running out of time, Some others are trying to rearrange travel arrangements because a good weather window is expected next week. The Norit k2 team will stay and will move up K2 starting July 29th. Tonight all members will watch a dvd they “borrowed” from the Norwegian Expedition.
Ger's latest update - 17 July 2008
Morale hit a new low for the team a few days ago when what appeared to be a possible weather window on the 18th vanished with the changing influences of the jet stream. High winds. No go. So we're still waiting on the weather. To kill some time 4 of us went on walkabout for a couple of days. Did us good to get out of basecamp for a little while. On our return it was back to business and meetings with other teams that are ready for a summit attempt. Another meeting now in a couple of minutes so I''ll keep this brief. Co-operation is looking good. The Koreans, Serbians, Italians and ourselves all seem to be on the same page. So better go. The lads are calling me. Meeting in the serbian tent next door.
All the best for now.
photo: Dining with the Italians
All members of the Norit K2 expedition today reached C3 on the Cesen route. Our Italian friend Marco reports to have reached C3 on the Abruzzi route in windy conditions with a bit of fog on the way.
Tomorrow will be a crucial day for all expeditions. The Cesen route expeditions have to get to the shoulder of K2 and build C4. The Abruzzi route expeditions first have to conquer the black pyramid and try to get to the shoulder to build their C4. If all goes well a summit bid will start Friday morning august 1st very early.
Reports from www.noritk2.nl
Photo: Near C4
July 31st. That's the target date for the first joint summit bid. Some will elect to go a day later. All weather forecasts jived. The weather on the 1st of August is, for the most part, equally as good. That'll give the lead party a buffer if there are any delays. The following days appear to be more than adequate for a safe descent. Initially the Koreans were keen to use the 31st to gain camp 4 and the 1st as a summit day. But they very honorably and gracefully succeeded to the logic of not wasting the first possible summit day. More especially because the weather conditions to gain camp 4 on the 30th should be more than sufficient. The meeting had primarily a humourous tone. Spirits were high. Hopes are high. It was joked that the next meeting would take place at camp 4. Cessen and Abruzzi teams meet there on the 30th. Inshall 'Allah. The Norit International team will leave basecamp on the 28th. Let luck and good fortune prevail !!! Fingers crossed.
Sin e anois a chairde. Ta an t-am ag teacht.