Dispatch from team Netherlands. Thursday July 20th
Ryan, Gerard, Mich and Wilco arrived at Camp 1 at 5963m. They only encountered a few little rocks during their climb from ABC to Camp 1. It's a big disappointment that on arrival they saw their HAP's still in Camp 1. They did not climb any higher due to the bad weather situation (high winds and snow). Wilco reports that the Pakistani expedition stopped there ascent because they lost almost all materials in camp 1 during last weeks bad weather period. The Italian team and the one remaining French climber from the French/Canadian expedition moved up to camp 2.
Irish Banjo Bannon: Camps destroyed; explorers web
Banjo Bannon has found his camps 1 and 2 flattened by the storm, according to his home team. He is currently waiting for news on the state of his C3.
Picture Camp 1 before the storm C Wilco
For the best of Irish mountaineering news and comments, www.patfalvey.com.
Thanks to explorersweb.com for keeping us posted.
French Hugues: Joint summit push on Sunday
Hugues, teaming up with Antoine, Qudrat and Shaheen will set off from BC tomorrow at 5:00 am. They hope to reach C4 on Saturday in time to rest some hours until midnight, when they will leave for the summit.
The Italian team (Nives Meroi and Romano Benet) will depart from BC on Thursday, expecting to join the rest in C3 on Saturday morning, so that everyone goes up for C4 together.
Hugues’ main concern now is the gear he left in a cache at C2, including essential stuff such as his down suit. For now, he'll climb in several layers of clothing stuffed inside his gore-tex shell.
Picture Ger now on summit Push. (c) Pat Falvey
Update dispatch Wednesday July 19th
After a long discussion early this morning the team decided to move from BC-K2 to ABC-K2. The discussion was about the weather. At the moment they wanted to start it was snowing and a strong wind was blowing. Not the weather you would normally prefer at the moment you start a summit push. The weather forecast shows a good weather window starting Saturday. The team has to start in poor conditions to be at the right place at the right moment for the last part of the summit push.
Ryan, Gerard, Mich and Wilco have now arrived at ABC at 5344 meters after crossing the icefall. The wind is still blowing very strong and they are looking towards the glacier they have to negotiate tomorrow. The first part is full of huge Seracs. One of these huge ice columns is crashing down with a enormous roaring sound at the moment we are talking to Wilco. ABC is set on a safe place right next to the glacier. HAP’s are already in Camp 1 and are not very happy with the wind :-)
Thanks to team Netherlands for updates.
Serguey Bogomolov: Mystery climbers in camp 1
Russian climber Serguey Bogomolov reported to Mountain.ru that 5 Russians and one Irish climber have reached C1 on K2. Bogomolov said all but three tents in camp had been flattened by the recent storm.
Picture Ice Route from Base camp(c) Ryan Waters Base camp K2
Message from Irish lads on K2; They are now on the move to camp 1 today.
After our success on Broad Peak (8051M), we are now well established at K2 Base Camp. The weather has not been favourable with high winds high on the mountain and fresh snow, which resulted in a few avalanches. Tents have been damaged and lost at camp 1 and 2. The current goal is to leave for ABC and camp 1 tomorrow morning (July 19, 2006). Our first wave of climbers includes Mick Murphy and Gerard Mc Donnell along with Ryan Waters and Wilco van Rooijen.
Once moving up the mountain they we will move continuously toward the summit to limit exposure to rock fall and potential deterioration of the weather. Hopefully, we will be in position to reach the summit early next week.
Gerard Mc Donnell and Mick Murphy.
They pass on their thanks to all their supporters here at home in Ireland and throughout the world.
Thanks to Maartan, Base camp Netherland
Picture (c) Base camp Netherlands.
Picture shows Gerard, Wilco and Mark Sheen being inteviewed after Broad Peak
For the best of Irish mountaineering news and comments www.patfalvey.com.
I have been onto Maarten van Eck from team Netherlands base camp k2 manager and like to thank him for forwarding our messgages to our Irish lads on K2.
I have asked him if its possible to contact Ger and Mick to let us know how their getting on and feeling.
He has replied with e-mail below. I will also try and find out information on Banjo Bannon and where he is on the mountain. Pat
Reply from Maartan.
I will do my best, but this is the last day at BC-K2. Tomorrow morning they will climb to Advanced Base Camp. The only means of communication will be the satphone. Of course we will be very prudent with using that connection because of the battery energy levels. We want to keep as much energy reserved for the summit push. The idea is that the summit push will take place early Monday morning at 01.00 hr. It will then take 17 !! hours to go to the top and return.
I forwarded your request to Wilco and now we have to wait for the response. If I get any reaction I will forward it to you.
UPDATE. 17th July Wilco's web site
Ger McDonnell and Mick Murphy playing a waiting game hoping weather improves for a shot.
Today Wilco visited Art Gilkey Memorial. He did that eleven years ago and is surprised by the increase of names since that moment. He reflects on some of the famous names and recollects the names from the year 1995. The year he climbed K2 but was seriously injured by falling rock. He also finds the name of Markus Kronthaler.
On his return in BC-K2 the weather update is waiting. Everybody is curious for the latest message from Ab Maas the Dutch meteorologist. It looks good for the summit plans. Team 1 will start on Wednesday morning July 20th. Summit push Monday morning 00.00hr Local Time. At the end of this message you will find a button "reacties". Send your personal and positive messages to the climbing team. They will need it over the next few days. It wil be a gigantic task to climb K2 this year.
Weerbulletin nr 38 “Two Peaks” 17-07-2006 09.00UTC
Pictur Mick Murphy (C) Ryan waters
UPDATE Saturday July 15th
Today a meeting was organised with all teams at BC-K2. Russian, Italians, Pakistani and one member of the French/Canadian expedition. Ryan explained our plans and Wilco explained the weatherforecast.
There are three major concerns:
The amount of snow between camp 3 and 4, the amount of rope and other tools to secure the Bottle Neck and of course the weatherforecast in case a summit push will start. The Pakistani and the Italians agreed to cooperate with the International Expedition. They will try to get together in Camp 3 at the same time and divide the work and the resources. Wilco is complaining about the weather because it drives him nuts he can't do a thing and he is getting bored.
Wilco's web site
12:46 pm EDT Jul 14, 2006
(K2Climb.net) Monday's weather forecasts announced that the jet wind was en route to K2 and sure enough, “the weather is terrible,” reported Dutch Wilco van Rooijen from K2’s base camp yesterday. The winds are scheduled for a drop on Saturday, but climbers worry what conditions they will find on the slopes after the storm.
Photo:File image of Italian climber in C2, courtesy of Nives Meroi's website
Who is in BC-K2?
The weather in BC-K2 is terrible at the moment. The wind is unbelievable and it is snowing in BC-K2. Already there is some discussion about who should be in the first or second summit team. Ryan briefed all climbers that this is a very dangerous mountain with lots of falling rocks and avalanches. Wilco already knows, because he climbed K2 many yaers ago and almost lost his life. He was hit by a big rock and had to be evacuated by helicopter.
The weather will stay very bad the next few days. All climbers will stay at BC-K2 and spend there time by resting and preparing for the next chapter in their Expedition.
We published two new updates from Wilco. The updates tell the same story you have just read. Take a look anyway because we added some new pictures.
You will find the updates here