Tuesday, 19 August 2014 14:08

Kilimanjaro over 1250 successful summits.

Kilimanjaro news: We are now one of the world's leading adventure company's working on Kilimanjaro with over 1250 people having reached the summit over the last 12 years. Below is another one of this year's group who had 100% summit success.

July 2014: We laughed our way to the summit. As usual we had all of the trauma of climbing a high altitude mountain but the team weathered them all. Summit night was cold and with the wind chill was -17 degrees. Luckily, all had equipment to weather the conditions. All the team are safely down.

 

Also see another one of our teams success on the August by going to 100% summit August 17th 2014

Expedition Leaders Pat Falvey and Freddy Tarimo

 

Photo: Kilimanjaro news: 100% success with a great team. We laughed our way to the summit. As usual we had all of the trauma of climbing a high altitude mountain but the team weathered them all. Summit night was cold and with the wind chill was -17 degrees. Lucky all had equipment to weather the conditions. All the team are safely down. Sorry about updates but we had difficulty posting from the mountain. I will follow up with further reports and pictures over the coming days.


Our route is one of the most scenic on the mountain and is known as the Machame route. 

There are five different climatical zones as we make our way to the Roof of Africa.

Zone 1: The coffee and banana plantation. This area is full of life and where the locals that work on the mountain mainly live. 

Zone 2: The rain forest. Popular question is - does it rain?! It is humid, beautiful with amazing plantation but has very little wildlife. 

Zone 3: The moorland/alpine region. 

The plantation is more alpine with beautiful flowers and from our entry to this region we will be living above the clouds. Usually warm during the day and cold at night. 

Zone 4: The lunar desert. This is an amazing rocky desert with little or no growth or life. The rock is brownish red and feels as if you are walking through a moon-type landscape. Warm during the day but gets cold if the wind picks up. By night the temperature really drops and at time goes below 0 degrees. 

Zone 5: The depleting Arctic region. The days can be warm and we go through a vast difference in temperatures in this region. It can go from +25 degrees and down to -25 degrees depending on the season. 

All the team are ready to take on this amazing challenge. 

Picture: Our team at our hotel briefing. Checking out their home for the next 7 days
Photo: Now briefing on our climb of Kilimanjaro the team are excited and can't wait to get onto the mountain. We are at the starting blocks and the adventure has begun.  I have included information on our itinerary below.   Today we are settled into our hotel below the mountain, we are making final preparation and packing for the journey ahead.   Our route is one of the most scenic on the mountain and is known as The Machame route.   There are five different climatical zones as we make our way to the Roof of Africa.  Zone 1: The coffee and banana plantation. This area is full of life and were the locals that work on the mountain mainly live.   Zone 2: The rain forest. Popular question is does it rain!!! It is humid, beautiful with amazing plantation but has very little wildlife.   Zone 3: The moore land/ alpine region.   The plantation is more alpine with beautiful flowers and from our entry to this region we will be living above the clouds. Usually warm during the day and cold at night.   Zone 4: the lunar desert. Yes this is an amazing rocky desert with little or no growth or life. The rock is brownish red and feels as if you are walking through a moon type landscape. Warm during the day but gets cold if the win picks up. By night the temperature really drops and at time go below 0 degrees.   Zone 5: The the depleting arctic region. The days can be warm and we go through a vast difference in temperatures in this region. It can go from +25 degrees and down to -25 degrees depending on the season.   All the team are ready to take on this amazing challenge.   Picture: Our Team at our hotel briefing. Checking out their home for the next 7 days

Irelands leading high altitude adventure company www.patfalvey.com -For further information on our Kilimanjaro trips This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or ring Pat or Abina Falvey 064 6644181
Elbrus, July 2014
We all had a great time in Russia in July, culminating in all of the team reaching the summit of Elbrus, Europe's highest mountain.
We were dogged with bad weather for a few days and held our position for a small break in conditions when we made a go for the summit and pulled it off.
Many other teams failed due to bad weather and not giving themselves enough time to have a second chance at the summit.
We had a great team who sat tight and reaped the reward of standing on the summit of Elbrus, and getting safely back to base camp.
We also had a great time in the area and even spent time in Moscow in Red Square meeting up with some the local  -  see some milestones from our trip below.
July 24th:
Moscow and Red Square, Team Elbrus hits Moscow and spot who they met!! A great day seeing the historical center of Russia. — with Shane O'Toole and 4 others.
Photo: Moscow and Red Square, Team Elbrus hits Moscow and spot who they met!! A great day seeing the historical center of Russia.

July 21st:
#Elbrus Days 6 and 7: What a few days. We did not post pre summit as we had no internet. Now updated on the above dates for those following the adventure.

Day 6: We rose at 07:30 to blue skies and high winds. Breakfast at 08:00 and then a big day's climbing. Unsure of how everyone would preform we had three milestones in place for the day; the higher we go the more acclimatized the team were. 1st the bottom of Pastaov rocks at 4600 meters, 2nd top of Pastov Rocks at 4800 meters and third would be 5100 meters just before the long traverse under the east summit of Elbrus.

The team were very strong and we ascended 1000 meters to 5100 meters which took six hours of hard slogging at high altitude in high winds, which added to the hardship. A number of the team were suffering from slight headache but we did ascend 1000 meters and all the team were delighted and all acclimatized well.

The team were exhausted but all were ecstatic at their achievement of having climberd over 1000 meters. This was the first time that I felt all the team were confident in their summit ambitions.

Day 7: A day of technical training on gear, crampon use and ice axe arrest, as well as decision day on the summit attempt. Weather was our major problem; the forecast was for iffy weather for a summit attempt. We had marginal weather conditions, but we had done everything right and the team were ready for a hard summit attempt, acclimatized and prepared for whatever Elbrus put up to them.

Climbing, trek and go on expedition with Ireland's leading adventure company www.patfalvey.com for your next adventure.

 

Expedition leader Pat Falvey Irish & Worldwide Adventures with Artem Rostovtsev

Pat Falvey's photo.
Pat Falvey's photo.
Pat Falvey's photo.
Pat Falvey's photo.
July 17th
Day 4: We went to the glacier today for final preparation and acclimatization before we move up from Cheget Base Camp at 2000 meters tomorrow to make final assault on Elbrus to higher camps above 4000 meters. The team are now ready. This is our fourth day acclimatizing.

Today on Elbrus we tested our gear to ensure all is fitting well, especially those with hired boots. This was our last chance to return to Cheget Base Camp and make final adjustments and changes before moving onto the mountain proper.

The team were excited as this was their first time to ascend above the snow line and also above 4000 meters. We met the Russian Golden Circle Girls Club en route and in typical Irish style, we sang and danced with them on the glacier. Everyone was in good voice. See Joe Byrne's recording on facebook pre this article. Pat Falvey led the session with 'We're singing in the rain'. 

Team condition:
Some of the team displayed some signs of the effects of altitude but nothing they won't get over in the next few days as we rise higher and get the bodies ready for a final summit attempt.

The team now have now a pace and system in place to ensure we work as a unified moving train. All the team are focused on not alone themselves but their team members. I know how upsetting it would be for any member to run into problems in reaching the summit at this stage. The team are all confident in our ability as a unit to pull it off, but they also realize this is a BIG mountain and that many things can go wrong up here, such as altitude problems, sickness, exhaustion, injury, the weather and anyone in the team could just simply have a bad day.

All of those problems have to be overcome and hopefully they will, with a positive mind, proper acclimatization, good weather and attitude, and being careful.

Weather was good today with temperatures of 25 degrees. Tomorrow we move up and I might not be able to post for a few days. We have 5 days to summit if we need but we are hoping to summit Friday/ Saturday. 

We are back in the comfort of Cheget Base Camp this evening and enjoying the comforts of our hotel as we pack for the mountain tomorrow. Keep posted and share if you know people interested.
With Brian Gallogly and 7 others. (10 photos)
Pat Falvey's photo.
Pat Falvey's photo.
Pat Falvey's photo.
Pat Falvey's photo.

July 16th:
#Elbrus Day 3: The team are acclimatizing great and working well together and are like the Musketeers - 'all for one and one for all' . Today we did a further acclimatizing trek and choose one of the most beautiful valleys in the area. I usually add a few extra days to ensure proper acclimatization for all the team. 

We descended down valley today from our Cheget Base Camp to Elbrus village at 1800 meters. It gave us a chance also to experience the signs of transformation of old farmsteads which are being abandoned and the development of modern farms and houses.

After a brief look around we headed up a steep and spectacular gorge with a torrential river running from the Irikchat Valley which brought us up steep mixed ground which had signs of massive erosion and which we had to tread carefully. We made our way through the pine forest and out onto the high meadowlands which are used during the summer season to feed cattle and horses. We met a few sheperds on route by horse into the valley.

The gorge is 20km long and brought us into the base of the east slopes of Mt Elbrus. We trekked for 4 hours uphill in good weather, stopped for lunch and relaxed for an hour to acclimatize and then we descended in 2 hours in a thunderstorm.

Tonight we do a check on all gear that we require for the snow and ice on Elbrus. All gear that the team is short we will hire. My concern is that we have 5 of our team with size 12 boot size -'big lads with big feet'.

Tomorrow we move up on to the ice from Cheget to acclimatize before we return to base in the afternoon with all gear tested and ready to pack. The following day we move up and will spend a further 5 days high on the mountain and then hopefully summit.

Keep posted and share if you know others interested in following. Internet will be limited once on the mountain. www.patfalvey.com

Team exp leader Pat Falvey and Artrem Rostovtsev.
Other team members: Phyll Blake Byrne, Neol Garrahan, Paddy Lonergan.
— with Mick Knockanora and 8 others. (11 photos)


July 14th
#Elbrus Day 2: 
Today we climbed to the Terskol Observatory from Terskol Village. We moved our strategy from yesterday when we got high fast by chair lift to 3000 meters and then trekked to 3400 meters and returned to base camp at the village of Cheget at 2000 meters.

Today was cardio aerobic session trek, to get the heart, lungs and blood pumping to the muscles at altitude.

We trekked through the village of Terskol, then up through the pine forest and alpine region with its beautiful display of wild flowers. It was a beautiful sight to see hundreds of different wild alpine flowers.

Ascent including rest and stopoff at waterfall then on to the Observatory at 3100 meters. It took 5 hours and the descent took 2 hours. Weather was stable in the morning and on returning back to Terskol we experienced a thunder storm just breaking out.

Today we acclimatise by walking from base camp at 2000 meters and walk to the Observatory at 3100 meters, a total ascent of 1100 meters to one of the country's main astronomical observation telescopes and operated by the International Center for Astronomical, Medical, and Ecological Studies, Kiev, Ukraine.

This is a hugely interesting place to go and see and had been equipped for research between 1970 - 1990. Our journey took us through the lower farm region to the more rugged volcanic area before the Observatory.

All the team acclimatizing great. Eating and resting well and getting oxygen saturation up over the next two days before going higher for final days of assault on Elbrus. Keep following our progress.

Tomorrow we continue our acclimatization marking sure our bodies are right before moving up on Elbrus.
— with Brian Gallogly and 6 others.
Thursday, 01 July 2010 15:18

Tony Nation

Tony Nation, Trekking Guide & Trainer

Tony's love for adventure has taken him to many regions of our planet,  he enjoys leading groups in Africa, Russia, Nepal and South America.

Like many of our adventure guides and trainers his passion is that of communication and instilling the culture of the places we visit to those that join in our our adventures and courses.

He is also one of our leading Irish guides with special knowledge in the Cork and Kerry hills and mountains.

He is a father of  four Sean, Damien, Sara and Timothy and from a very early age to instill adventure to his children became involved with his wife Mary as a leading light in Scouting Ireland, giving of his time voluntary for over 20 years to promote the adventurous spirit in children.

He is a County Commissioner for Cork South and heavily involved in training new Leaders and delivering Mountain Skills training to all Leaders and Scouters.

Tony is a good story teller, has a passion for the outdoors, enjoys good food and after a hard day on the hills a few pints in good atmosphere.

Tony is also a manager/trainer in our Health, Safety and team-building Corporate division

Let us introduce you to Tony in a short video

The video (Video ID: 67) is not published

 

 

Friday, 23 October 2009 13:09

Elbrus

 

copy-of-norway-beg

 

Trip: Mt. Elbrus, Caucasus range, Russia,  Highest Mountain in Europe

Altitude: 5633m / 18,510ft,  a contintental High Point and 7 summit challenge

Route: Adylsu Valley - Priut Hut - Summit - Terskol

Dates: June & August - See our expedition leader Group June 2013 and 2014 (Irish Leader June 2013 Pat Falvey Groups 6+)

Duration: 13/14 Days total

Expedition Leader: Pat Falvey

Grade:Trekking – Strenuous,

Prices: €2250 Land Only

Flight: €880 Ireland-Moscow-Mineral Ni Vody Central Caucasus & return.

Mount Elbrus

A superb climb, and suitable for a beginner moving on from trekking the likes of Kilimanjaro into climbing and moving on snow and ice. It brings you to a volitile region of Russia, just miles from the border with Georgia, in the central Caucasus's and to the peaceful region of Kabardino-Balkaria were we climb Europe’s highest mountain.

The Caucasus Mountains stretch for 550 miles (880Kms), from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea. They form the physical barrier dividing Europe and Asia, and the whole range lies entirely within the former Soviet Union. This region is home to 50 different Ethnic groups which all seek independence and recognition for their customs, beliefs and their freedom from repressive regimes.

This area is one of the most interesting places on earth and this expedition gives us a chance to explore the wonders of this otherwise war-torn region by visiting the peaceful region of Kabardino-Balkaria, which is situated in the Central Caucasus and is our destination for our attempt on Mt. Elbrus.

The highest and most glaciated part of the Caucasus is the central region,where Mount Elbrus stands, the highest mountain in Europe. Elbrus is a popular mountain, being a straightforward glacier climb. The main hazards are the high altitude (which we prepare for as fully as possible, with training climbs and walks in the Baksan valley), and poor weather, for which we have built in a few spare days to give more flexibility.

Climbers will need to be familiar with the use of crampons and ice axes, although ski poles will generally used. We have scheduled in to our itinerary specific acclimatisation days to allow our bodies to adjust accordingly for our summit attempt. We have designed a course, Snow and Ice Skills, specifically for those travelling to a region and landscape like that found on Mount Elbrus. We recommend you complete this prior to travelling with us.

Our expedition begins in Moscow. We only have a very brief stop off here before catching our flight to Mineral Nye Vody and then on to our base, Terskol which is situated in the Balksen valley. Before our attempt on Elbrus, we spend a few days in the spectacular valleys surrounding Elbrus, acclimatising, training, resting and looking for a break in the weather. Mount Elbrus is notorius for storms!

Overview

Undoubtedly, the best known and most alluring mountain in Russia, and the largest in Europe, Mount Elbrus is a dormant volcano, one of the 'Seven Summits'. The fact that it is the highest in Europe suffices for many to go and climb it.

Elbrus belongs to a handful of mountains with a very special and irresistible kind of beauty which lies in their shape and setting. It stands 11km north from the main range and exceeds its neighbours in height by 1200-2000m. The views from both summits are breathtaking: to the north is a rolling carpet of pastures and all other sides there is a sea of snowy peaks.

The Elbrus Region/ Prielbrusie- Located in the Central Caucasus, the highest part of the entire mountain range is an area where many valleys converge into the Baksan Valley.It's glaciers give rise to the Baksan, Kuban and Malkan Rivers. In this region we will see many famous peaks such as Mt.Shkhelda (4,320m), Mt. Chatin (4,369m), Mt. Ushba (4,710) and Mt. Elbrus itself (5,642m).

Mount Elbrus dominates the Central Caucasus and has two seperate volcano vents: the western peak, Zapadnaya 5,642m, is the higher peak and the eastern peak, Vostochnaya, at 5,621m. The eastern peak has a crater 250m in diameter. The mountain is covered in a huge sheet of ice which covers some 145sq KM and is up to 400m thick. Often horrific weather surrounds the mountain and it is notorius for storms. From the col that divides the two peaks the snow slopes descend to the many tongues of ice and crevasses lying in the valleys.

The ancients knew the mountain as Strobilus , Latin for ' pine cone', a direct loan from the ancient Greek Strobilos, meaning ' a twisted object' - a long established botanical term that describes the shape of the volcano's summit. A myth that is held here claims Zues had chained Prometheus, the Titan who had stolen fire from the Gods and given it to ancient man- likely a reference to historic volcanic activity.

Route

By the normal route it is a long climb over a medium incline that requires good acclimatisation but has no real technical difficulty. By this stage we will have spent many days in the surrounding hills and valleys acclimatising and preparing for our climb. The simplicity of this climb is not to be under estimated, it is a dangerous route. Apart from the altitude , the highly variable weather and freqeunt violent storms combined with low tempatures, as low as -25 degrees, means that this ascent is a real high altitude adventure!

The average time to summit is approx 9hrs and approx 4 hrs for our descent. Crampons and ski poles are necessary for this climb and ice axes are useful for extra safety. Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Caucasus generate and attract thier own weather, making conditions unpredictable and ferocious at times. To be prepared for a wide range of tempatures it is important to bring everything on the recommended equipment list.

Grade

Trekking - Moderate to Strenuous:

This trek is suitable to those moving on from high altitude peaks like Kilimanjaro and wishing to start progressing to mountains which require additional skills such as moving on snow and ice. A good level of fitness is required prior to departure.

A good level of fitness is required for this climb and if you have not been training prior to this climb you will lower your chances of a successful summit. It is a demanding trek and includes an average of 6 hrs walking per day, with exception to summit night which is between 12 and 15hrs.This is a technical climb and is very steep in places. For many people it will be a very hard physical challenge. We strongly recommend that you seek advice on fitness from a professional instructor.

Prices

Prices & Inclusions

Land Only €2250 Flights €880  All inclusive €3130,

Inclusions

Fuly escorted with experienced guides and on site training

All transfers

Hotel Accommodation

Park Fee's

Accommodation while trekking

Communal Equipment

Exclusions

* Visa fees

* Meals on route

* Travel Insurance

* Tips, bar bills, laundry, room service etc.

* Extra baggage costs

* Personal gear - Medication

Optional Extra's Moscow City Guided Tour - 1 Day - Extra night B&B Please contact us for more details on Moscow City tour

Itinerary

Day 1: Dublin- Moscow-overnight flight

Day 2: Moscow - Mineralnye Vody - Tereskol, night hotel or similiar

Day 3: Hike to Cheget,3,600m- Night at hotel

Day 4: Hike to Observatory-Night at hotel

Day 5: Hike to Adysul Valley

Day 6: Cable car to Mir station, Hike to Barrel,Night at the Barrels.

Day 7: Hike to Priut hut or higher- Night at the Barrels

Day 8: Technical Training/weather/acclimatisation day

Day 9: Technical Training/weather/acclimatisation day

Day 10: Summit Attempt- last potential summit night -Night at Priut Hut

Day 11: Descend to Terskol Night at hotel

Day 12: Tereskol - MRV- Moscow Night at Hotel

Day 13: Moscow- Dublin-Arrive home/ unless you have opted for the Moscow City Tour Extension

City Tour Extension

Day 14: Moscow free day, B&B

Day 15: Moscow - Ireland

Day 16: Arrive Ireland

Cancellation:
Full refund applies if cancellation is received and acknowledged more than 20 weeks prior to event.
Desposits will not be refunded for cancellations received within 20 weeks.

For bookings made where flights have to be paid for in advance, the flight cost is non- refundable once paid

 

Preparation

Climbing Mount Elbrus is, among other things, a big personal and team achievement. Therefore, it needs to be enjoyed as much as possible, and to do it, it is necessary to bear in mind some recommendations when starting to prepare for your ascent. Your experience will depend on your training. The chances of summiting successfully are greater when you train specifically for the challenge ahead. We have designed a number of courses and walks to help you achieve your goal.

Recommended Training Program

Your daily routine must include some exercising that will contribute to achieve fitness. As nowadays most of us have many obligations, sometimes it is hard to find the time to train everyday. When you have a goal such as to summit Elbrus, the challenge is worth it and all the effort may become a pleasure, which is another goal in itself.

Although Hillwalking is best and specific to the challenge, please remember any type of cardiovascular training will help you prepare for this expedition. Focus your training on building endurance by completing long, slow and low - mid intensity training session along with a few fast and short sessions to build up your anaerobic capacity. Build the distance and duration of your training sessions slowly as over training often leads to injury. Contact us for more information regarding our training courses to help you be in the best shape possible.

Meet & Greet

Our Pre-expedition meetings are designed as part of the preparation process. All team members are invited to partake; it is a good idea to have these meetings once you have made up your mind to take on an expedition. The meetings include a thorough briefing on all aspects of the trip and provide an ideal opportunity to clear up any final questions you may have. We may include this in our skills course. *A date will be confirmed for meet with your Tour Leader once you have signed up.

Passport / Visas- For your application

You will need a full valid passport- please ensure your passport is valid for 6 months after we return home.

For you Visa application:

4 passport photos-signed on reverse side.

Tourist Voucher-available from us on request.

Travel Insurance Certificate.

Applications are made by post to your nearest Russian Embassy

For more info please contact our office.

Gear

# We have all you need at our new store located in the Gap of Dunloe, View our products online @ http://shop.patfalvey.com/

Clothing

Light weight long underwear - Tops & Bottoms

Expedition weight long underwear - Tops & Bottoms

Briefs - For everyday wear while trekking

Short Sleeved T-Shirts/Shirts - 2 x trekking

Long Sleeved T-Shirts/Shirt - 2 x trekking

Sofshell/Fleece x 2

Trekking Pants x 2/3 - one insulated pants is recommended

Parka Jacket - Down or synthetic with hood- Expedition Type and needs to fit over all insulation layers (it can get as cold as -25 degrees celsius)

Jacket - Waterproof & breatheable- storm proof mountaineering jacket

Over Trousers - Waterproof & breatheable- storm proof mountaineering pants

Footwear

Shoes for travel and easy walking

Sandals

Lightweight Hiking Boots

Climbing Boots - Plastic double boot-available for hire

Gaitors - short simple gaitors are best

Booties - optional luxury, down/synthetic

Lightweight socks - 2/3 pairs

Sock Liners

Warm trekking socks - 2/3 pairs

Foot Powder

Head & Hand Wear

Liner Gloves

Windstopper fleece gloves

Waterproof Mittens

Bandana/Buff

Sun Hat

Warm Hat

Balaclava/Face mask

Accessories

Sunglasses x 2 - Specific to High Altitude Mountaineering, UV & IR protection

Ski Goggles

Headtorch

Spare batteries

Climbing Equipment

Ice Axe - Available for hire

Crampons - Available for hire

Ski Poles - 1 pair collapsible spring bound ski poles

Harness - lightweight web waist with all leg loops opening

Carabiners- 2 x screw gates, 2 x snapgates

Backpack - at least 75 litre with ice axe haul loops and crampon attachment point

Daypack - 25 - 35 litre

Waterproof pack cover

Sleeping Equipment

Sleeping Bag - Expedition quality to at least -25, down preferred and must pack small

Sleeping Mat - Thermorest preferred for extra warmth

Pocket-Knife - leatherman or similar

Water Bottles - 1/ 2

Pee Bottle/Funnel for women

Travel Items

Large Duffel Bag

Travel clothes for days in we are in transit

Travel towel

Swim shorts/suit

Padlocks for bags while in transport

Toiletrie bag

Camera

Book/Journal

Miscellaneous Items

Travel Insurance Certificate

Passport, Visa and document copies

Money in US Dollars / Euros

Sun Block - important

Towel and wash kit

Spare batteries for all electronic equipment

Medical & Personal

Lip Screen

Personal First Aid Kit

Personal Medication - seek advice from your doctor

Babywipes/handwipes

Hand Gel

Ear Plugs

Water Purification Tablets

Published in Europe
Monday, 11 August 2008 00:00

Update from Elbrus - Caucasus Russia

Our team are in Terskol awaiting their flight to Moscow later today. Pat was talking to Katy and all is fine with no sign of any military or trouble to worry about. Our russian guides are informing us not to worry as its quite a distance away. The team are in great form and enjoying their down time at the moment. Katy was having a swim the last time we talked before today, Monday.
The following is a condensed translation of the story on the Russian site.

The author is one of the survivors Sergei Bogomolov. I've chosen to omit some of his meaningless sentences. Natasha Ter Gazaryan our Moscow representative.

Extracts translated from interview with surviving Russian climber on Russian web site.

“We had put ourselves a deadline the 13th of August. We had run out of
food by this time. The 13th of August morning was the first fine morning for the last two weeks and we thought that a benign beginning for the summit day, the K2's special gift for our perseverance.

The icefall or the avalanche happened as soon as we where out of the Bottleneck, no more than two hours away from the summit. That seemed to be a huge bulk of ice and frozen snow 120 by 80 m in size. It was falling down at breathtaking speed and swept four climbers that were in the middle of our group to their death. We heard
no noise so characteristic of an avalanche. That happened in silence. Nobody
heard or seen where that bulk of ice had come from. We tried to find out what happened to our friends, but all in vain.

All of us were hit to some extend with the falling ice. Two Russian
climbers in front and me ,the polish guy and Banjo who were keeping the
rear were not hit much” Sergei Bogomolov Russian Climber K2

We’d like to thank Natasha for her translation and posting it to us.
Published in K2 BroadPeak 2006
Telephone information from Serguey Bogomolov to Russian climb web site.

August 12th reported all team at camp 4 had decided to call it a day and descend to base camp. There was no visibility and the snow conditions where deep. As the day progressed the weather cleared and the summit seemed close so everyone changed their minds to go-for-it. So the summit attempt began on August 13th.

“The first party was Kulbachenko - Gaponov. The second who ascended, were Foigt, Kuznetsov, Uteshev and Kuvakin. The last party was Bogomolov - Bannon - Teler.

The avalanche caught the first and the second parties. Kulbachenko and Gaponov had dug out from the snow and tried to find others. The third party joined them. There're steep slopes below that place, and avalanche fell there. Serguey Bogomolov didn't see how the avalanche struck. Climbers couldn't find their partners. In addition, there was a danger of next avalanche, so they decided to descend. Tomorrow the expedition will leave the BC.” Reported Serguey Bogomolov from base camp.

For the best in Irish mountaineering news and comments www.patfalvey.com
Published in K2 BroadPeak 2006
Wednesday, 16 August 2006 00:00

Missing Russian Climbers named:

Sadly Russian climb announces the names of the K2 Kuzbass 2006 expedition who have been missing since August 13th. Hopes are now fading that there will be any further survivors will be rescued.
The names are, expedition leader Yuri Uteshev, the coach Alexander Foigt, Piotr Kuznetsov and Arcady Kuvakin. May they rest in peace and our thoughts and sympathy go to their families and friends. These have been the names confirmed by Serguev Bogomolov on a call from base camp K2.
Published in K2 BroadPeak 2006
Tuesday, 15 August 2006 00:00

Update on Irish K2 climbers:

Ger McDonnell;

Ger McDonnell has returned to Ireland on Sunday 13th August and is making a great recovery from his injuries that he received while on K2. He will be in Ireland for the next few weeks finalizing his plans for the The Irish beyond endurance expedition starting in November www.beyondendurance.ie He is also spending time with his family in Limerick before leaving to return to Alaska.


Mick Murphy:

We just have had a text from Mick to say he has returned to Ireland today 15th August. We believe that Mick is going on a year out, travelling around the world.

Banjo Bannon:

Simon Scott has informed us that Banjo will rest at base camp for a few days before making the return journey to Ireland and is expected back on the 27th August.
Published in K2 BroadPeak 2006
Banjo safe at base camp.

We are delighted to confirm that Banjo is now safe at base camp with the Polish climber Jacek and the remaining three Russian climbers. It has also been confirmed by the Leader of the Russian team that 4 of his team, sadly died in the Avalanche of Sunday 13th August 2006.

To the family and friends of the Russian Climbers, we would like to extend our deepest sympathies.
Published in K2 BroadPeak 2006
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