Khan Tengri North

  • Overview

  • Route

  • Grade

  • Prices

  • Itinerary

  • Preparation

  • Gear

Trip: Khan-Tengri Peak


Altitude: 7010m/ 22999 feet


Route: North Inylchek Glacier


Date: Base Camp North - contact Pat Falvey for dates and details


Duration: 24 Days Land only- 17 Days Climbing 7 Days Travel/Acclimatisation treks


Grade: Independent Irish Expedition


Price: Invitation only- Please contact Pat Falvey if interested in similar expeditions.


The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as 'The Mountains of Heaven' Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.

The safest route up the summit leads from Base Camp on North Inylchek Glacier. It is a little bit more difficult than the classic route (1931) but is protected from icefalls and avalanches. The ascent on this route lies against the background of the vigorous Northern Wall of Khan-Tengri Peak (2500 m), formed of black granite, blue ice and yellow marble, striking by its dimensions and the play of sunlight and shadows on the mountain wall. The steep ridge, offering comfortable sites for intermediate Camp 1 (4900 m) and Camp 2 (5500 m), leads to the snow-covered dome of the shoulder of Chapayev Peak. An easy slope down the wide snow ridge ends in Camp 3, usually arranged in a snow cave. The ascent shall be continued by the rock steps of West ridge. There are a few comfortable sites to set camps at altitude 6400 metres. However, this option is not often used. Usually ascents start from Camp 3. Fixed ropes will help you almost along the entire route. The months of July and August are the best time for ascending the peak.

Expedition - Strenuous


This expedition is suitable only for experienced mountaineers who can be self-sufficient, previous alpine experience is essential. A high level of fitness is recommended prior to departure. You will enjoy your trip a lot more if prepared well. This expedition is mostly strenuous due to it's duration and altitude gain, experienced climbers may find it moderate. Sections of very steep snow and ice at angles over 50 degrees. Rock sections up to Severe. . Most days will require 4 to 7 hours climbing excluding acclimatizing days. We run Fitness Assessments and expedition training weekends that are ideally suited for those who need a little more preparation, please go to our Training Courses Section. We recommend these options to ensure a good level of understanding of the requirements for the upcoming trek and remember to contact us if you have any queries or need advice.




At Irish & Worldwide Adventures we have agreed to allow 2 extra days for acclimatisation or rest purposes. It is worth spending a bit extra to stay safe and achieve your goals. The pace is key to preventing *AMS. The group will be monitored by the guides at all times for symptoms of the effects of altitude. Only if these symptoms persist that a person should get advice or will be advised to descend. (*Acute Mountain Sickness)


* Meeting and seeing off in Bishkek /Almaty International Airport
* Registration in OVIR (local police office)
* All transfers
* Interpreter’s service
* Hotel in Almaty, B&B, 1 night or in Bishkek, B&B – 2 nights
* All stafs insurance
* Royalty
* Entrance fee for the border region
* Ecological duties
* Reconfirmation of tickets
* Return charter helicopter flight to BC (no limitation for luggage overweight)
* “Family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC
* Three meals a day in Karkara and BC (no limitation on number of days with F/B in BC)
* Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty/Bishkek
* Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier
* Kitchen-tent
* Cooking accessories in BC
* Cook
* Sauna or shower in BC (no limitation of visits)
* Toilet in BC
* Evacuation of debris from BC
* Medical aid in BC (incl complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder)
* Consultations by an experienced guide
* Radio Comm. between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter & Bishkek/Almaty office
* Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North
* 2 snow caves for 10 persons on the “shoulder” of Peak Chapayev (6100m) and on the Western Saddle (6000m)
* Walky-Talky
* Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries



* Food & Equipment above the BC on the glacier
* Rescue operation (a copy of insurance policy required)
* Changing of date of departure from Almaty/Bishkek by international airlines
* Additional nights in a hotel in Almaty/Bishkek
* Lunches and dinners in Almaty/Bishkek
* Extra flight by helicopter
* Sightseeing
* Kazakh or Kyrgyz visa
* International flight
* All optional deviations from the main itinerary
* Beverages and meals not included in main menu
* All personal expenses (room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
* The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
* The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending

Helicopter flight timetable 2015 - Contact Pat Falvey for details and dates.


  • Day 1: Arrive to Bishkek/Almaty. Meeting at the airport. Drive to Karkara Base Camp 2200m. Accommodation in comfortable "walk-in tents". Leisure time after the long day of travel.


  • Day 2: Acclimatisation. Hiking to the neighboring hills (Highest being 4059m)


  • Day 3-4: Helicopter flight (35-40 min) up the Base Camp, North Inylchek glacier


  • Day 5-21: Ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak.


  • Day 22: Helicopter return flight to Karkara Base Camp, 2200 m.


  • Day 23: Drive to Almaty. Hotel accommodation.


  • Day 24: Transfer to airport. Fly home.


See our School of Mountaineering for Training Courses available


Helicopter flight timetable 2015: Contact Pat Falvey for details and dates.


To organise your expedition including permit to border zone we will need following passport information for each individual wishing to travel:

* Full name (as in passport)
* Date & Place of birth
* Sex
* Nationality
* Passport number
* Passport date of issue
* Passport date of expiry (there shouldn't be less than 6 months between the dates of visit and passport date of expiry)
* Occupation and company's name
* Home address
* Kazakhstan/or Kyrgyzstan Embassy where you expect to apply for your visa


High-Altitude Food

According to the itinerary, you will have 1-2 hours in the morning before departure for Karkara BC to buy high-altitude food that you will need for the climbing due to your wishes and taste. There are different products in the supermarkets of Almaty/Bishkek, the main of them are: walnuts, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, dry fruits, dates, cashew nuts, fish tins, meat tins, sweets, sugar, salt, chocolate, bread, sausage, cheese, rice, milk, tea, coffee, cornflakes, butter, porridge, biscuits etc. But please make sure to bring special dry food from your home country.


Environmental Protection

For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and we then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.

A full climbing gear list will be supplied on enquiry.


1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate carabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude food stuff



The following equipment can be rented:

1. EPIGAS stove €10 per piece

2. After refilling gas balloons for EPIGAS €6 per balloon

3."Guazar" High altitude double tent, €125 per tent

4. RED FOX High altitude double tent, €50 per tent

5. Ropes 50 meters €60 per rope




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