Climb Aconcagua

  • Overview

  • Details

  • Route

  • Grade

  • Prices

  • Itinerary

  • Preparation

  • Gear

  • FAQ

Trip: Mt. Aconcagua, Andes Range, Argentina

 

Altitude: 6962m / 22834ft


Route: Polish route via Vacas Valley/Polish Traverse/Normal route

               Horcones Valley Via Penitentes 


Date: Dec, Jan & February -  Polish Glacier - December 17th,  January 7th and 28th 

                                                          Normal Route - December  24th 31st January 7th 14th February 4th 


Duration: 22 Days total - 18 Days climb - 6 Days Acclimatisation / Weather


Grade: Trekking – Strenuous, Basic expedition/glacier skills required.

 

Skills: Join one of our Skills Alpine Courses or Campcraft or training courses. 


Price: From €5950 - including Flights. Flight prices confirmed on booking. Contact us for more details 

 

Aconcagua Promotional video

 

Climb Acancagua with Ireland's Leading Adventure Company

 

Mount Aconcagua is the highest peak of the Southern Hemisphere, the American Continent and outside of the Himalayan Mountain Range, it is the highest mountain in the world. It is important as a continental high point for those endeavoring to complete or do what is know as the Seven Summits Challenge. Aconcagua is often referred to as the small 8000m because it is so barren with no vegetation above 2000m. The mountain and its surroundings are part of the Aconcagua Provincial Park which is located 180km west of the city of Mendoza. With about 71,000 hectares it protects an important part of the Central Andes. The mountain was created by the subduction of the Nazca Plate beneath the South American plate, and the origin of its name is contested, it is either from the Aconca-Hue, which refers to the Aconcagua River and means 'comes from the other side', the Quecha Ackon Cahuak, meaning 'Sentinel of Stone'. Many other translations exist.

In mountaineering terms, Aconcagua is technically an easy mountain if approached from the north via the Normal Route. Aconcagua is arguably the highest non-technical mountain in the world when climbed via the Normal Route, although the effects of altitude coupled with the cold weather are just as dangerous than that found on similar heights in other mountain ranges. The prize for one's hard work and dedication, is to stand on the tallest peak of the Western Hemisphere with the Andes mountain range spread below them. Good physical fitness, proper acclimatisation, good logistical support and an experienced guide all help to increase your chances of a successful summit on this mountain. Climb with us and we will provide you with the best opportunity and most experienced guides.

Mt. Aconcagua 

The "Giant of America", is an aim for many mountaineers, a challenge that’s exciting and stimulating to complete. During our 22 day adventure of ascending the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere, we’ll obtain precious, unique and exclusive experiences offered solely by this splendid and magnificent mountain. The history of the Aconcagua Mountain is closely related to the ancient culture of the Andes. The Inca population considered it a Temple, worshipping items were found including a mummy, which confirms the importance this "Stone Sentinal” had for the original people who inhabited this area. Mount Aconcagua is the centre and principal reason for the existence of the Provincial Aconcagua Park, one of the most spectacular protected areas of Argentina. This park is located in the province of Mendoza, situated a few miles from the Chilean border. The region of Mendoza is known to have some of the best wines in the world and its lands are fed from the waters which flow from Aconcagua's glaciers through the beds of the rivers Horcones, Vacas and Cuevas.

 

Mendoza

The city of Mendoza, with one million inhabitants is the mandatory pass for all mountain-climbers, for it is here that all climbers have to obtain an official authorisation permit to climb the mountain or to go trekking on its slopes. The city is located approximatley 110 miles from the mountain; has an international airport, numerous hotels, restaurants and recreational opportunities. A city to remember!

Polish Glacier Traverse Route

Aconcagua’s Polish Glacier is a unique route that blends high altitude with technical climbing, being the choice of those experienced climbers who prefer to avoid the crowds of the Normal Route. There are 2 routes that can be followed here- Polish Traverse Route and the Direct Polish Glacier Route, in all the ascent goes to Plaza Artenina and both show us wonderful places of Mount Aconcagua. Which route is most suitable for a climber depends on their experience, taking account the technical level and the risks implied by the mountain. Both routes start at Plaza Argentina following on to Camp 1 and Camp 2. The Traverse Route does not require rope skills as the way crosses around the base of the glacier. Pilot and Crampons may be required in parts. We will do a variation of the Polish Glacier called The False Polish Glacier, where we leave the route before the technical climbing starts. The Polish Glacier Route was open on 1934 by a group of polish mountaineers (thus explaining its name) and it was the first route after The Normal Route. It's known worldwide for its natural beauties and enormous landscapes.

Polish Glacier Traverse Route is the perfect combination between beauty, peace and challenge, joining the Normal Route prior to Summit Attempt. You cross the Vacas Valley and after three days, we arrive at Plaza Argentina, the camp of the mythic “Polish Glacier Route”. After a period of acclimatization, we continue to Camp 1 and Camp 2, where you can enjoy the pleasure of the magnificent site of Polish Glacier. From here, we traverse the Northwest face and at the Berlín level, we join the Normal Route. We continue to Filo del Guanaco which is out final point on route to summit. We descend via Camp 2 onto Plaza Argentina.

Grade: Trekking - Moderate

This trek is suitable to those moving on from high altitude trekking peaks to big mountains over 6,000m and can be achieved by an experienced intermediate. A good level of fitness and some experience on a mountain is recommended prior to departure. You will enjoy your trip a lot more if prepared well. We recommend that you attend our Free Meet Day to join your group and our experienced guide to go for a preparatory hill-walk. This provides a good opportunity to get any questions answered or concerns that you may have dealt with in relation to the trip. Tips on gear, altitude and conditions will be also covered. We also run Fitness assessment and Hill-walking weekends that are ideally suited for those who need a little more preparation. We recommend these options to ensure a good level of understanding of the requirements for the upcoming trek.

 

Acclimatisation:

When climbers arrive at Aconcagua, they are too attracted by what it means to be there, but this is precisely the time to calm down, get everything ready and keep a slow pace to favor acclimation and thus reach the summit. Once settled in Plaza de Mulas, it is advisable to walk around the area, favoring an adequate acclimatisation. In Plaza de Mulas climbers are advised to spend 4 to 5 nights minimum. The equipment can also be carried to a higher camp and climbers may return to Plaza de Mulas to spend the night. Among people between 30 and 45, a better acclimatisaion is to be expected due to the maturity of the nervous system. It must be pointed out that acclimatisation does not depend only on age but also on many other factors, mainly out of human control. Some people are even advised to rest 1 to 3 nights in Puente de Inca to start the expedition already breathing at this altitude. Well acclimatised, a person may make the final ascension spending the night in other base camps such as Berlín, Nido de Cóndores, Independencia, Canada, etc. More detailed information on Acclimatisation, Health Guidelines and Personal Safety Guidelines is available in Additional Information and FAQ sections.

Prices & Inclusions

To come early August: Awaiting park fees - contact us for details and current pricing in 2018 or call us for an approximate price on 064-6644181

 

Inclusions:

  • All transfers at destination unless added by member
  • Hotel Accommadation B&B 2-3 nights (min. 3 *)
  • Camping and all Meals on mountain
  • Guides, Tents, Stoves & Communal Equipment
  • Mule transportation of equipment
  • Permanent VHF radio communication

 

Exclusions:

  • Meals en route
  • Bar Bills, Laundry & Room service
  • Travel Insurance
  • Extra's mules/porterage taken on
  • Tips
  • Extra baggage costs
  • Additional Costs incurred if you choose to leave the Mountain early or we Summit on the first attempt
  • Personal gear
  • Medication
  • Ground or air evacuations
  • Phone communications and items of personal nature
  • Insurance liability & Hospital Costs

Here is a sample daily Itinerary, on booking you will be issued a more detailed version.

Day 1: Leave Ireland


Day 2: Arrive Mendoza - Hotel B&B

(760m)Our driver will pick you up at the airport and drive you to you to your hotel.


Day 3: Mendoza Free day - Collect Permit, Organize Equipment, Relax etc.

We will have a gear check and team meeting. Any gear you require we can rent today.


Day 4: Transfer Mendoza - Penitentes

(2,580m) We will spend the night in a lodge. This is also where we prepare the mules


Day 5: Penitentes - Entry of Vacas Valley. Here, we will begin the approach. Approx 4 hours later, we arrive at Pampa de Lenas (Trekking Camp 1).

(2,950m) We get our permits stamped at the rangers check point and begin the approach to base camp. After a 4 hour hike along Río de las Vacas we arrive at our first camp, Pampa de Lenas, where we enjoy a genuine asado criollo (Gaucho BBQ) For the entire hike in to base camp you will be carrying only a day pack with some essentials,as the mules take care of the heavy duties. (4 hours)


Day 6: Pampa de Lenas - Casa de Piedra (Trekking Camp 2). Long day in very hot conditions with little or no shade.

(3,240m) Hike to Casa de Piedra, our second trekking camp. Great view of the Polish Glacier and the Eastern face of Aconcagua from the trail. (6 hours)


Day 7: Casa de Piedre – Plaza Argentina Base camp (4100m)

(4,190m) We follow the trail up the Relinchos Vally to Plaza Argintina. The base camp chef cooks us up some good food after a long day on the trail.(6-7 hours)


Day 8: Rest day

Sleep, rest, hydrate, relax and acclimatize to the altitude.


Day 9: Plaza Argentina – Camp 1 (4800m) – Plaza Argentina 

(4,800m) We carry gear to camp 1. After caching equipment, food and gas we return to base camp. (5 hours) 


Day 10: Rest day


Day 11: Plaza Argentina – Camp 1

(4,800m) The team leaves base camp behind and moves to camp 1 with the remaining gear. (4-5 hours)


Day 12: Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5400m) – Camp 1

(5,350m) Gear carry to camp 2. Ashtonishing view of Mt. Mercedario and other peaks of the Ramada massif. Return to C1 (4-5 hours)


Day 13: Rest day


Day 14: Camp 1 – Camp 2 

(5'486m) Move to camp 2. (4-5 hours)


Day 15: Camp 2 - Camp 3 (Cólera)

(5,970m) We move to our high camp, from where we will attempt the summit. (4-5 hours)


Day 16: Summit attempt 1

(6,962m) We leave early to make the most out of the daylight. you will be carrying a very light pack. Water, snacks some spare clothes and a camera. (8-12 hours)


Day 17: Summit attempt 2

To secure the success of the expedition we have added two additional summit days in case of bad weather.


Day 18: Rest/Bad weather day


Day 19: Camp 3 - Plaza de Mulas Base Camp

(4,350m) We complete the Aconcagua traverse by descending the Northwestern face of Aconcagua (normal route), towards the lively base camp of the normal route. 

Day 20: Plaza de Mulas - Horcones - Penitentes.

The hike out take approximately 6-7 hours. Most of the gear goes on the mules, so the walk out is light. From the trailhead at Horcones our van drives us to our hotel, after picking up the gear at Penitentes. Hotel check-in. 

Day 21/22: Return to Ireland

Day of return depending on flights

Preparation:

Climbing Mount Aconcagua is, among other things, a big personal and team achievement. Therefore, it needs to be enjoyed as much as possible, and to do it, it is necessary to bear in mind some recommendations when starting to prepare for your ascent. Your experience will depend on your training. The chances of success and safety margin are highly improved by proper preparation and acclimatization to have necessary strength to avoid exhaustion during your journey, avoid accidents and decreased the likelihood of mountain sickness.


Recommended Training Program:

Your daily routine must include some exercises that will contribute to achieve fitness. As nowadays most of us have many obligations, sometimes it is hard to find the time to train everyday. When you have a goal such as to summit Aconcagua, the challenge is worth it and all the effort may become a pleasure, which is another goal in itself. We recommend that you undertake our Expedition weekend to refresh on campcraft, gear, clothing and to cover an overview of the use of crampons and ice axes. Ideally we recommend that you undertake our Norway Winter Skills Intro Course to allow understanding of what is required on expeditions. Previous experience at high altitude is also recommended. Many people move up to Aconcagua from Mt. Elbrus or similar climb, this is the recommended progression allowing higher success rates.

 

Our pre-expedition meetings are designed as part of the preparation process. All team members are invited to partake; it is a good idea to have these meeting once you have made up your mind to take on an expedition. The meetings include a thorough briefing on all aspects of the trip and provide an ideal opportunity to clear up any final questions you may have.


A date will be confirmed for Meet with your Tour Leader.

 

Passport / Visas:

You will need a valid full passport, please ensure it has six months before expiring prior to your departure date. Before applying for your visa please check dates on your passport. Please bring 4-passport photos for visas.

We will need to get a visa and this can be got upon entry.

 All gear listed below videos.

Gear List for high altitude mountains like Mt Elbrus and Aconcagua 

How to pack for snow and ice mountains

Layering system for summit nights at high altitude and other tips

For general wear on trek: cotton pants, t-shirts and if you have light thermals these will be ideal.

 

CLOTHING:

  • Light Weight Long Thermal Underwear - Tops and bottoms.

  • Expedition Weight Long Underwear - Tops and bottoms, cotton blends are not acceptable.

  • Fleece Jacket - Mid-weight to heavy-weight. Winds stopper an advantage.

  • Fleece Trousers - Light-weight/heavy pile, Recommended with full separating side zippers to allow for easy accessibility and effective ventilation.

  • Parka jacket - Down or synthetic parka with hood. Expedition type, needs to fit over all insulation layers. (It can get as cold as –25 degrees Celsius)

  • Jacket - Waterproof & breathable. Good storm-proof mountain jacket with attached hood.

  • Over Trousers - Waterproof & breathable.

 

HEADGEAR:

  • Sun hat - Sun hat with good visor and white bandanna or buff for protecting your neck.

  • Balaclava - 1 light weight.

  • Wool or pile ski hat.

  • Head torch - (inc. spare bulbs & spare batteries) Suggested: Petzl LED.

  • Glacier glasses and Ski goggles - 100% UV Cat. 4 preferred, must have side covers. If you wear contacts or glasses, we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses. Goggles are very useful in bad weather.

 

HANDS:

  • Synthetic gloves - 2 pair light weight, pile or polypropylene.

  • Mittens - 1 pair, Pile or wool.

  • Gore-Tex overmitts - Possible down also.

 

FOOTWEAR:

  • Light hiking boots or trekking shoes.

  • Climbing boots - Double plastic or High Altitude/Insulated boots required.

  • Gaiters - O.R. Crocs or similar.

 

CLIMBING EQUIPMENT:

  • Ice axe - General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 57cm to 70cm tool depending on your height.

  • Crampons - Step-in Petzl or grivel. Make sure these fit your climbing boots.

  • Ski poles - 1 pair collapsible spring bound ski poles.

  • Harness - Lightweight web waist with all leg loops opening. Alpine Bod or similar.

  • Crabs - 2 crabs screw gates, 2 snap gate

 

CAMPING:

  • Backpack - at least 75+20 Litre. Must have ice axe haul loops and crampon attachment point.

  • Daypack - 25-35 Litre Optional

  • Sleeping bag - Expedition quality to at least -25ºC down preferred, must pack small.

  • Sleeping mat - Ridge Rest or similar mat (Lightweight Thermarest also)

  • Pocket-knife - Swiss Army knife or Leatherman tool.

  • Water bottles - 1 or 2 x One litre wide-mouth water bottle, Nalgene.

  • Pee bottle - 1 x litre wide mouth water bottle.

  • Pee Funnel - (for women).

  • Sunscreen - SPF 30-40.

  • Lipscreen - SPF 20-40, at least 2 sticks.

  • Personal first aid kit.

 

TRAVELING:

  • Large duffel bag with lock.

  • Smaller duffel with lock - to store excess gear in hotel.

  • Plastic bags - to line stuff sacks to keep gear dry or a dry bag.

  • Travel clothes.

  • Travel Towel

  • Toiletry bag.

  • Camera gear.


MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS:

  • Passport & document copies

  • Money in Argentine Peso's, US Dollars or Euro

  • Sun-block (very important and use it!)

  • Towel

  • Ear Plugs & Nail Clippers

  • Spare Boot Laces, bulbs, batteries, memory cards etc.

  • Cold Water Detergent and some toiletries

  • Small sewing kit

  • Penknife and small scissors if not in first aid.

  • Diary or notebook & book for down time

  • Camera

  • Insect repellent

FAQ

Money:
It is advisable to bring some money in cash to the trip. ATM machines are not always reliable, or might have a low daily withdrawal limit. The climbing permit, to begin with, it’s paid only with cash. Then there’s ocasional expenses in Mendoza (a restaurant that won’t take credit cards, tips). Once in the mountain, US dollars in cash are the best way to pay for services as porters, a beer, tips for the muleteers, etc.

Packing:
The ideal combination for an Aconcagua expedition is a large, solid duffle bag; an expedition backpack (70-90 l) and a light, small daypack (20-30 l). How heavy will my pack be? Hike in to Base Camp: Mules carry most of the gear and supplies. You will be carrying only a daypack, with a few items like water and snacks, a camera, a jacket, sunscreen. Base Camp to High Camps: expect to carry all of your personal gear plus a share of the common gear (although we provide porters for group equipment). Tipically, a fully loaded Aconcagua backpack will weight between 18 and 22 kg.

Can I leave luggage in Mendoza or Penitentes?
Yes, there are secure places to store your gear at Mendoza, where you can leave things at the hotel, at Penitentes, where we have big a big warehouse with lockers, or at Plaza Argentina or Plaza de Mulas.

Leaving the trip early:
As a rule of thumb: trips are designed with the idea of avoiding any extra costs to the climbers. However, if you need, or choose, to leave the trip early, please bear in mind that there will be expenses that are going to be your responsibility. In the case of medical evacuations or accidents, the Park’s Medical Service and the rangers can decide that a climber needs to be helicoptered out of the Park, at no cost (that coverage is included in your climbing permit). But the climber will be responsible for any other service, such as a mule to carry her or his gear back to the city, hotels, private transfer to Mendoza, etc. If you depart from the group for any other reason, there might be expenses such as a guide, porters or mules for the gear, transfers and lodging.

Group Sizes:
We like small groups: six climbers is a good number, with more than nine climbers we’d split the group in two. We focus on giving every climber a fair chance to summit. 

Toliet paper:
It is good practice to bring your own but it is provided to anyone if needed

 

 

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